|Upper Northeast Buttress
A fun single pitch fingercrack, this thing would be as popular as P1 of Dave's Deviation if it was in a more accessible area. The book gives it 5.9, but I think thatís a bit soft compared to climbs in the area. Mostly good jams, a little thin at the top but you have the dihedral to work with at that point.
Start on a face between My Pink Half of the Drainpipe and a right-facing dihedral on your left, where a couple of face moves leads to an obvious finger/hand crack with a bush in it 25 feet up. Thereís a blocky section just past this with one sort of loose block, but itís easy climbing. The crack continues up, thinning towards the top where it merges with the dihedral. A two bolt anchor/rap station is on the left.
Located on the Upper Northeast Buttress, which may not be easy to locate if youíre not familiar with the area. From El Whampo continue scrambling up and left around blocky ledges until you find a steep gully/chimney. You may want to rope up here, thereís some awkward moves getting up.
Once the gully levels out you should see obvious routes to your right, the roof of My Pink Half of the Drainpipe right above you. Last Grapes starts between My Pink Half and a right-facing dihedral on your left.
Medium to small gear, thereís placements to 2Ē but you can get away with smaller.
Jun 19, 2014
Yea fun. I felt bad standing on the little tree though, no way around it. The bolted belay on the left is easy to miss. I stayed right and belayed off a slung tree, then continued on easy ground to the top.
The right facing dihedral ever been freed?