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Ace of Spades 
Last Goodbye 

Last Goodbye 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 700'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mark Leonard, Kathy Kocon-Hicks, Gary Hicks, 1980
Page Views: 221
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Jun 11, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Last Goodbye (5.8), Block Ridge/Trundle Wall, Sand...

Description 

Located on Block Ridge, which forms the left side (south edge) of Trundle Wall, Last Goodbye presents some good 5.8 climbing down low, with a mellow finish, in a great setting. Described by Hill (1993:191-192).

P1, ~160’: Aim for the beautiful dihedral that is visible 100’ up. From the first belay tree, head up and slightly right to the overhanging groove (yes, the one with all the rock lettuce/cabbage.) (To the left, there is a clean overhang that leads directly to the dihedral as well. I spent a long time trying to turn that roof, but I didn’t see a way to keep it in the 5.7-5.8 range. But it was chalked up, so someone’s been on it recently.) Above the overhanging 5.7 groove on the right, follow steep, slightly loose blocks to a fixed pin (an angle in a horizontal; the head of the pin is stamped “IIIX” or “XIII”, if that means anything to anyone). Then climb a fun thin face on a leftwardly ascending traverse into the excellent 40’ 5.8 dihedral. (The direct corner from below meets up again here). At the top of the dihedral, the massive prow of the ridge looms above. Belay somewhere around here, planning for the next pitch to head up to the right.

P2-4: Without trying, we sort of unintentionally blended Hill’s next three pitches into two. Regardless, from the toe of the prow, head right, up another superb 40’ 5.8 dihedral, then up a slabby ramp below a short headwall. Above the headwall, the ridgeline flattens out. Traverse this 4th class sawtooth ridge to the namesake Block.

P5: Ascend easy 5th class up the steep face behind the block, which will spit you out right at the rap anchors for the Trundle Wall routes.


Location 

On our approach, we aimed to leave the packs at the top of the route. To descend, maybe you could rap the Trundle Wall (but it sounds like it overhangs so much that you need to leave gear on the raps?). Instead we then opted to backtrack and walk down TWA Canyon. Down in the canyon, when nearing the base of Block Ridge, note the ledge about 200’ above the actual ridge toe. Traverse onto that ledge, and aim for a small fir tree just above the ledge. Getting to that tree involves some very exposed 4th class, so one may choose to belay slightly lower, or rope up to approach the tree.


Protection 

We took 1-1/2 set of cams from C3's to a single #3 C4. Many small nuts were useful. One old fixed pin on P1.



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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 11, 2013

re: rapping Trundle Wall to approach.

We recently rapped in Top Flite with a single 60m rope (3 rappels). Shouldn't need to leave gear, except at the top anchor, which you could retrieve on the way out. We replaced the cord on the anchors. The last rap isn't ideal (wiggly pin + fixed nut); we backed that up with a non-weighted cam, then cleaned it when we climbed out.

If rapping S&S, would need to leave gear for the 2nd rappel (one bolt only at the top of p2), and 70m rope needed.

Hope this helps. At least you found the trail in TWA canyon. That ridge looks a nice line.