|k. The Slime Wall
This overhanging crack/chimney is hard to miss if you continue walking along the base of the cliff beyond the Seasons area (it might be hard to climb, too). It has some unique and strenuous moves, but is very well-protected (for the first pitch, anyway).
Begin at a short, steep finger crack in a right-facing corner, and work your way up into the bottomless chimney. Great jams can be had above your head, but the feet are insecure. Work your way up and right out of the chimney (crux), past a horizontal (another crux!), to a ledge with a fixed anchor, from which you can rap (50 feet).
Williams's book indicates two pitches above, but the second pitch is listed as 5.8 R/X, so I didn't try it. If anyone wants to add that info, I'll edit the description.
Generally, between the Seasons and the Slime Wall. Specifically, 45 right of Blistered Toe
The usual rack, but nothing small, and you might want an extra #2 camalot.
Pete looking for jams, gear, and feet.
Jan 25, 2010
This is one of those rare routes where leading it without a helmet might be the lesser of two evils.
Nov 7, 2011
there is sometimes an anchor 40' up around a chockstone/pinch, but it comes and goes. there is a tree another 30' up dirty, easy climbing that also sometimes has an anchor.
Nov 21, 2011
Anchor 40' up has been chopped...keep going to the tree.
|By David Wilkerson|
From: Rockville, MD
Jun 11, 2012
Save this one for a cold day!
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I'd tape up.