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Saddle Peak
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Xeno Dance S 

Last Dance 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FFA: Wolfe/Weygand
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 685
Submitted By: Maidy on Apr 15, 2012

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Erik Wolfe hitting the crux hold on the FA

Description 

Climb past an arch and balance/reach/jump (?) through the crux roof (5.10d). The moves through the roof may be more difficult for those of shorter stature. Continue up slabby moves and fun moderate climbing to a second tricky move and a unique hold,then balance up to the anchors.

Location 

Located on the far right side of the Saddle Peak/Corpse Wall formation.
Just right of Route 10.

Protection 

5 bolts, chain anchors.


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By Maidy
Apr 16, 2012

The 10+ move on this climb is the bouldery roof move right at the the first bolt. Crux difficulty may be somewhat height-dependent and the rating is not yet fixed while we get a consensus. Fun, moderate, balancy climbing after the roof. Climb still has a fair amount of lichen, but clean holds and footholds are present and some traffic will improve it.
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jun 22, 2012

Pretty fun route. The start was real tricky, but I used a small flake down and left instead of the left sloper and it made the move way easier. I'd say it's a 10d but all the other moves are 5.9-5.10a.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 3, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun moves and good protection. I really enjoyed this route, enough that we've repeated it on several occasions. The pull over the roof is much easier if you're 6 ft. or taller. Take care clipping the 4th bolt as a fall onto a ledge is possible.
By Wil Sterner
From: Topanga, California
Oct 9, 2013

Best route on the wall.