Last Dance of a Fat Man 5.13a
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| Type: | Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.13a [details] |
| FA: | Jeremy Mariette and Keith Anderson |
| Submitted By: | Brandonbus on May 19, 2006 |
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Description This route starts at a rounded out hueco about 25 ft to the right of Barney Rubble and climbs straight up to a one bolt anchor with a fixed biner. Godzilla (Vias) is the line that splits left after the first couple bolts.
Previous anchors for this and a few routes to the right have been unofficially moved down to slightly better rock. Avoid going to the original chains as their integrity is unknown and likely suspect. It is a good idea to have more than one bolt clipped when lowering or working on toprope.
Very long reaches through very small crimps lead to a shallow mono and a brief rest before deciding how to handle the crux which has been done several ways. Most of the moves favor tall people. Finish on some eroding holds to a larger hueco and a rest stance before the last bolt / anchor.
Protection bolts
| Comments on Last Dance of a Fat Man |
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By Jonathan Williams
From: Palo Alto, CA
Nov 23, 2008
rating: 5.13a
| Hard, even harder if you are short... Big, long moves between small incut crimps.
Hard, reachy moves past the first bolt lead to full-handed jugs. Move up past a mono and more small incuts, to the large chossy hueco 5 bolts up. Very sustained power-crimping. This route overhangs a good 15 feet, which is pretty big for Red Wing.
Cleaning up nicely with more traffic, this is an excellent route that is underappreciated with the other hard routes in this area of the Winter Wall. |
By Brandonbus
Apr 12, 2009
rating: 5.13a
| Really hard route especially because the crux holds keep seeping. Fun moves on really small holds but I like Light My Fire and Rock Pigs better. |
By AntVicino
Oct 12, 2009
| Where exactly is this line? |
By Jonathan Williams
From: Palo Alto, CA
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.13a
| Just to the left of Rock Pigs (with the "elephants foot" at the start-- and which is just to the left of Light My Fire), in a scoop/hueco, that is 3-4ish feet across or so. Hard moves off the ground including a long lock-off/momentum move to a good edge up left. It goes straight up, some hard sh!t in the middle, I couldn't do it |
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