P1: easy start on good pro to awkward short chimney to ledge and first bolt. Go up chimney/arete on chossy rock but easy climbing and bolts to anchor.
P2: Past 2 bolts angled traverse past low angled slab to dark black open book. The book is the crux pull buldge to top. Descent is rap from top if 70 meter rope can reach P2 belay, if not go to one of bolts on P2 then short rap to anchors and a 3rd rap to ground.
To the right of DE about 15 feet.
Small to #5 cams single set, 5 quickdraws and one or two extenders.
Great quality rock on this one!
Aug 30, 2009
Take a number five for the chimney. Chimney sucks you in to place the pro..then move out an over to bolt. Pitch two is work...takes good pro in the back of slot. Some loose stuff near the top out. Cool route. 10c imho
Jun 20, 2012
My number 5 BD was TOTALLY tipped out at the chimney part. I suggest a number 6 BD or a Big Bro if you want to do it safely? For me, this was one helluva spicy climb! Glad I pushed through.
|By Catherine Conner|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 12, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
finally lead the second pitch ~ and i always love the first pitch. So pitch 2~it's HARD work, i threw every offwidth flare squeeze armbar chicken wing foot torque earthworm press backstep friction technique i had, and got it done, it's good and should be done more! Very awesome!