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Last Chance 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Duemler, Tim Roley
Page Views: 698
Submitted By: bio on May 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Leaving the wide chimney but before the squeeze!

Description 

P1: easy start on good pro to awkward short chimney to ledge and first bolt. Go up chimney/arete on chossy rock but easy climbing and bolts to anchor.
P2: Past 2 bolts angled traverse past low angled slab to dark black open book. The book is the crux pull buldge to top. Descent is rap from top if 70 meter rope can reach P2 belay, if not go to one of bolts on P2 then short rap to anchors and a 3rd rap to ground.

Location 

To the right of DE about 15 feet.

Protection 

Small to #5 cams single set, 5 quickdraws and one or two extenders.


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Great quality rock on this one!
Great quality rock on this one!

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By lou
Aug 30, 2009

Take a number five for the chimney. Chimney sucks you in to place the pro..then move out an over to bolt. Pitch two is work...takes good pro in the back of slot. Some loose stuff near the top out. Cool route. 10c imho
By RyanJames
Jun 20, 2012

My number 5 BD was TOTALLY tipped out at the chimney part. I suggest a number 6 BD or a Big Bro if you want to do it safely? For me, this was one helluva spicy climb! Glad I pushed through.
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 12, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

finally lead the second pitch ~ and i always love the first pitch. So pitch 2~it's HARD work, i threw every offwidth flare squeeze armbar chicken wing foot torque earthworm press backstep friction technique i had, and got it done, it's good and should be done more! Very awesome!