Type: Ice, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,219 total · 19/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on Jan 22, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Description Suggest change

Easily the best ice climb in the logan area.

100 feet of beautiful green ice that forms quite reliably every winter, about 30 feet wide at the start and around 20 feet at the top. The first 15 feet are about 75 degrees, followed by a gully of 45 degree to 60 degree ice, with the crux 25 feet of vertical ice at the end.

There is a less vertical/direct route that ascends the left side of the falls, which decreases the rating and pump.

Easily toproped via the fat descent tree. Note, that there isn't an easy way to setup a top rope without leading the route. The climb itself is well guarded by cliffs on both sides.

Location Suggest change

Directions: Drive up Right Hand fork road,(or walk or snowmobile depending on road conditions. Not plowed in winter) till you pass a fenced cabin on the right side of the road. The climb is visible from the road a few hundred yards before the campsite (high on the hill). continue on the road until you reach 0.85 miles from US89.

Approach:

On your right will be a large flat campsite with a large boulder next to the stream. Behind the boulder is a collection of brush and fallen trees (December 2023). It was helpful to put on crampons at this point for crossing the icy/snowy brush/logs.

Cross the small but still challenging river via some rocks or the fallen tree, and hike up the steep slope to the ice. 15 min. from the river to the ice.

Descent: Rap from fat tree off slings. One 60 meter is fine. (December 2023: Cordage around tree is in fair condition, but could be replaced soon)

Protection Suggest change

Ice screws. The ice is pretty thick. 16-19 cm screws work well.

Photos

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