2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Last Call starts in the crack just to the right of Rush Hour (5.12a) and avoids its overhanging section. Climb the crack until you encounter a slight overhang a third of the way up. Here you need to traverse to the left where you will climb the upper portion of Rush Hour. The traverse is the crux of the move. This route provides a good alternative for those who are unable to negotiate the crux of Rush Hour.
The toprope requires a class 4-5 down climb from the top of the wall, you'll need some gear and a sling. The top is best accessed via a hike up the left side of the crag. You can rope up the route without the down climb, but I do not recommend it due to rope wear.
I thought this route was almost as good as Dementia (which I think is the best pitch in the canyon) and as good as any other route at Happy Hour. Felt stiff for 5.9 (pumpy!) but the gear is pretty good, albeit a little awkward in places. Surprising this route is star-less in Rossiter's guide. The anchor on top can be set with #1 to #4 Camalots; I used a #1, #3 and #3.5.
This route is the best on the cliff...really spectacular and 10 times better than Dementia. The crux is definitely getting over the chimney roof, then there is some more hard laybacking up above. This climb is probably a sandbag, but the protection is excellent.
By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO Oct 25, 2003 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
Along with Dementia, the best route on Happy Hour. Sustained, interesting climbing throughout with a burly layback crux past the roof.
Set up a gear anchor to belay, then traverse right and rap from the bolts atop Cheers (aka Thrill of the Chaise) to get down.
Remember those 5.9 overhangs in the gym that you thought didn't exist outside? There is nothing slight about the overhang IMHO. A fantastic climb at the grade with plentiful pro; albeit a little tricky to place going around the roof. This was an awesome climb, I can't wait to do it again!
By Sergio P From: Idaho Springs, CO Oct 30, 2006 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
If Dementia is 5.10a, then this is .10b. More physically-intensive then Dementia for sure. Small stoppers and/or big RPs help protect the thin crack before the 2nd roof. It is possible to traverse right at the top and lower off the Dementia anchors with a 60m rope. However, if you do this make sure to use a long sling on any gear placed after the second roof. Great route!
By percious From: Bear Creek, CO Mar 23, 2009 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
I actually thought this was considerably easier than Dementia. Hard for a 5.9, as you have to place gear while hanging out on the overhanging section, but the hold there is good, and a medium sized slotted nut is quick to place with the left hand. One awkward move in the middle brings you to easier climbing. Walk off is recommended. I think this is the most sustained and best 5.9 at this crag, and may be the best climb at the cliff, it's a toss-up between this and Twofer's for me. I like the sand-bag potential for Twofer's better ;-) .
If your second wants to climb it, I'd recommend belaying from the top rather than toproping since the rock is a little sharp in places. There are two bolts with rap rings at the top. Also, don't forget to place gear to keep the rope out of the crack.
By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton 22 hours ago rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
There are bolts above this climb, probably for Rush Hour, and they look safer to reach from above than the Dementia anchors which are at about the same level. I solo down climbed to the anchor so I know it is possible. The crux on this is difficult but, very short .