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Laser Beams 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Jeff Jackson
Page Views: 142
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on May 29, 2012
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Laser Beams.

Description 

This is a slopey and technically demanding route that climbs a stunning black and white streaked face and arete.

Start by liebacking up a wide crack to reach the first bolt. Move up and right towards the arete using slopey edges until you can slap around the arete and escape to easier terrian out left. From the ledge, traverse right towards the arete. With nothing but a right-facing arete and minimal feet, fight your body's urge to barn door off the wall, and precariously reach an atrociously slopey shelf. A few more horrendously slopey moves gains a huge jug. But wait, it's not over, the crux awaits. Using a very awkward undercling, stand up on the jug, and commit to more disappointingly slopey edges on the steep black headwall that leads to the chains.

This route has amazing and unique movement, but it was covered in a fine layer of sand. Hence, only three stars. So, if you plan on trying it, bring a brush. As for the grade, 13a seems like a serious sandbag. I wouldn't argue if someone called it 13c. Either way, this thing is a masterpiece.


Location 

Look for the obvious black and white streaked wall.


Protection 

Bolts and a two bolt anchor. Bring a brush!



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