Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Las Conchas

Select Area...
Cattle Call Wall Area 
Chilly Willy Wall 
Dream Tower 
Easy Bake Alcove 
Gallery Wall 
Gateway Rock 
Grotto, The 
Hidden Tower 
Leaning Tower 
Love Shack Area 
Retirement Wall 
Sponge, The 
Subdivisions, The 
Wart, The 

Las Conchas  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,400'
Location: 35.8151, -106.532 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 139,969
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jul 30, 2006
Forecast:
Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat
Chance of a Thunderstorm
55° | 34°
Partly Cloudy
58° | 34°
Clear
62° | 34°
Clear
65° | 34°
Clear
64° | 36°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
A ten-minute hike from the highway and one is rewa...

Description 

Beautiful area set in the meadows in the Jemez mountains, Las Conchas is one of the more popular summer sport climbing areas within 2 hrs of ABQ. Because of the elevation, summer days are often cool enough to be pleasant. Many of the crags in the area are situated along the East Fork of the Jemez River, making the climbing environment that much more enjoyable.

Getting There 

From Albuquerque, take I-25 North to Bernalillo and exit at highway 550 (exit #242, DON'T miss this exit, the next exit does not come for many miles). Follow 550 to San Ysidro and head North on state road 4 for about 36 miles. You will drive past picturesque Jemez Springs, Battleship Rock, the small community of La Cueva, just beyond Las Conchas camping area to the second pull out by a well-traveled trail and meadow on your left. From Los Alamos or Santa Fe (or from the north), it is faster to reach the same area by taking NM-4 into the Jemez near Bandelier NP, passing the Valle Grande meadow (watch for elk) and reaching the same meadow.

The obvious cliff seen through the meadow on the north side of the road is Cattle Call Wall Area. Most of the other cliffs are downstream, following a trail that begins on the west side of the creek.

Resources 

  • 'Jemez Rock' is the most complete guide to the area
  • 'Rock Climbing: New Mexico also covers the area

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.1 miles from here

132 Total Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',42],['2 Stars',56],['1 Star',22],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',3],['5.8',10],['5.9',15],['5.10',37],['5.11',30],['5.12',21],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',5],['V4-5',4],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Las Conchas:
Crucible   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Cattle Call Wall Area
Bovine Inspiration   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Cattle Call Wall Area
Hollywood Tim   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   The Sponge
Huaca del Sol   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   The Subdivisions : Huacas
Lightbulb Not Included   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   Easy Bake Alcove
Drive By Shooting   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   Gateway Rock
The Other Woman   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   Love Shack Area
Forest   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Gateway Rock
Woof Toof Noof Roof   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Gateway Rock
Pumping Huecos   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 50'   The Sponge
Cow Pies For Breakfast   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Cattle Call Wall Area
Road Rage   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport   Gateway Rock
Udder Limits   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Cattle Call Wall Area
Metamuscle   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 65'   Retirement Wall
Silverback   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 75'   Retirement Wall
Take That Space Coyote   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Love Shack Area
No Sketching   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 40'   Chilly Willy Wall
Happy Entrails   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 35'   Love Shack Area
Death Grip   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Love Shack Area
Golden Years   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 75'   Retirement Wall
Browse More Classics in Las Conchas

Featured Route For Las Conchas
Heath getting after it. May 2014.

Plague of Pestilence 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c  NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Hidden Tower
From the start of Double-Blind Study use a variety of hueco holds through a V6/7 sequence to gain the face at the 1st bolt. Clip the 2nd bolt before venturing through a balancey sequence of slopers, pinches and less-than-positive holds on your way to the crux. Make a body-length left hand move out to a decent pinch on the arete from a poor one-pad half-moon pocket with the right (V8). Stay composed through a blind slap to a slopey sidepull jug left of the arete, from which you clip the 3rd and last b...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Las Conchas Slideshow Add Photo
Richard Boyle starting up Death Grip
Richard Boyle starting up Death Grip
Looking south across highway 4 at the burned area from the Las Conchas Fire of late June 2011.
Looking south across highway 4 at the burned area ...

Comments on Las Conchas Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 28, 2014
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 13, 2008
Because of the multi-use nature of this area, there's a huge problem with human waste disposal in the area. It's super pitiful to hike behind any of the climbing walls only to find huge piles of unburied dookers complete with toilet paper dressing.

This past weekend there was a big load sitting at the base of Hollywood Tim that was no doubt put in place by a non-climber. For a long while I've questioned why there isn't a porta-potty at the main parking area for Las Conchas. Sure, there's a permanent toilet just up the road towards the Caldera but people aren't likely to make the short walk or drive up there to take care of business.

This morning I attempted to contact the Jemez Ranger District of the Santa Fe National Forest at 575-829-3535 but got no answer. When I called the main SFNF office in Santa Fe they told me I'd have to speak with the Jemez Ranger district folks about this. If you get a chance to call the Jemez Ranger district and politely suggest a porta-potty, please do. I've never looked into how much it would cost to have a porta-potty setup somewhere and dumped regularly but I'd be happy to donate funds to the cause if it wasn't terribly expensive.
By Mike Dechter
Mar 3, 2010
Hello all,

The Jemez Ranger District of the Santa Fe National Forest is considering camping restrictions in the East Fork Jemez Wild and Scenic River Corridor. This includes the area between Las Conchas and Battleship Rock. There were a couple public meetings about this last year to help the Forest Service design a proposal... and now that proposal is out and the Forest Service is looking for comments on it from users like YOU.

I have a scoping letter with all of the details on the proposed action, which I can send via post or e-mail. If interested, please e-mail me with your information: mdechter@fs.fed.us. Thanks!
By Willie Mitchel
Mar 18, 2010
I read the mention of packing out waste and thought id share a product I use. Its called a Biffy Bag and it is far superior to the Wag Bag and Reststop systems. It does not require a bucket or commode and comes with everything you need in a little package. It has a triple sealed puncture proof containment bag which prevents all odor and chance of leaking. WONDERFUL product I recommend to everyone. The rammifications of human waste are seriously effecting these beautiful areas we love so much so I ask everyone to address this matter more seriously.
By Code Dog 91
From: Edgewood, NM
Sep 16, 2011
A week ago I was searching for Upper East Fork and found that two trailheads were closed and a fine would be given. Any updates on opening them would be great thanks.
By Bill M
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 16, 2011
Noticed two new routes today on Gateway Rock, the one on the far right was excellent, what's the grade on these?
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 16, 2011
Bill Matlin wrote:
Noticed two new routes today on Gateway Rock, the one on the far right was excellent, what's the grade on these?

The far right route is Forest, a former gear route that was recently retro-bolted. The other newer, short route is Unknown 5.7. I don't know who put up the routes but I think it was the same persons based on the identical hardware.
By Owen Summerscales
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 21, 2012
Anyone know about the bouldering here? There's some very nice problems, chalked and clearly have been climbed many times, just wondering about if theyve been named yet or not?

The rock's a little coarse, but the overhangs make for some superb boulders.
By Curt Dvonch
Apr 22, 2012
I left a rope in a blue rope bag at gateway crag yesterday (Saturday 4/21) and I checked this morning but it wasn't there. If you found the rope or if you know who did, please let me know. Thanks!
By John M Sullivan
From: Austin,TX
Aug 9, 2013
I'll be in the area in a couple days, and figured I'd get a little information about the crag to get ready:
1) How many quickdraws do I need for the climbs?
2) Top rope friendly?
3) I'll be with some beginning climbers; what's a good wall to take them to?

Thanks a lot!
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 9, 2013
Due to the Thompson Ridge fire, most of the Las Conchas area is closed until Oct. 1, 2013. The Cattle Call Wall Area is apparently open but that's it. For routes here, 10 quickdraws is more than enough and some routes can be set as TRs if you bring static line to tie off from trees at the top--the bolt anchors aren't accessible from the top.
By Owen Summerscales
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 11, 2013
Cattle call is on private land, so the FS dont have anything to say about it. In fact, the flagging makes it very clear where the private/FS land boundary is.
By John M Sullivan
From: Austin,TX
Aug 11, 2013
Thanks for the info! I'll be pretty close, so it wont be a big deal if it's closed. I'll check out area 37. Since Cattle Call is on private land, camping there probably isn't an option?
By Owen Summerscales
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 12, 2013
No camping at las conchas right now. Without the restrictions, you'd be normally allowed to camp about a mile downstream, but not currently. Camping is open in jemez springs, unless you want undeveloped spots.
By Chet Butterworth
May 23, 2014
will be here in the next few days, what's the most recent word of camping in Las Conchas?
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 24, 2014
Chet Butterworth wrote:
will be here in the next few days, what's the most recent word of camping in Las Conchas?

A couple of years ago (at least) the forest service closed all camping along the river at Las Conchas in the first 1.6 miles (or so, maybe further) from the highway. So effectively no camping. But there are forest service campgrounds not too far away. Look for Redondo Campground or San Antonio Campgrounds to the west a number of miles.
By Nathan Kofahl
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 28, 2014
Jemez falls campground is a good place to stay and it isn't very far away.