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Large cam beta?

Original Post
CCas · · Bend, OR · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 145

For all the "wide" climbers out there... I am looking to pick up some big gear. I have read that after a BD #4, it is better to go with Wild Country for the #5 and #6 size equalivent (yes i know they are not exactly the same)?

I have not been able to find much info to defend or negate that online and I wanted to run it past the community... any beta would be appreciated?

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

The WC #5 and #6 are lighter than the equivalent BD's (I own one of each) and I don't think that the range is all that different either. The BD's have proven a little bit more durable IMO, as the trigger wires on the WC have tended to get a little wonky and cause the cam lobes to not re-center perfectly. Not a big deal, but never had this problem with the C4's. I'd say get whichever you can get cheaper or find someone on here selling their used ones. Bigger than a #6...Valley Giant is the only option I'm aware of.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Never seen or used one of these, but don't forget about the Valley Giants (there are threads on MP about how long it took to get them, but in the end, people sound happy with the product):

valleygiant.com/

Don Ferris III · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

I own a BD 6 and was able to borrow a WC 6 over the weekend at Vedauwoo. First impressions of the WC were good but in reality there's a slight flaw with it. Each pair of lobes can rotate independent of each other allowing (if you're not carful) one pair of lobes to invert as you're sliding the cam up the crack as you often do while climbing off width. If you have perfect technique you may never notice but if you're gripped as fuck, struggling and exhausted and the lobes invert it might ruin your day. I'd go with BD big cams personally. Those friends do look cool though.

CCas · · Bend, OR · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 145

Yes sir.. above a #6, VG is the only game in town and althoughj they can be tough to get, I have only heard amazing things.

Apprecaite the beta... I am going to go with the BD's! Thanks guys! I can't wait to get back to the Voo!!!

Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188

Thought id post this for future reference for folks.

Old 5 vs new 6

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

Above a 6" you can only use VG's......
or BigBros..... I know they're not cams per se but...you can use them

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
CCase wrote:For all the "wide" climbers out there... I am looking to pick up some big gear. I have read that after a BD #4, it is better to go with Wild Country for the #5 and #6 size equalivent (yes i know they are not exactly the same)? I have not been able to find much info to defend or negate that online and I wanted to run it past the community... any beta would be appreciated?
I actually sold my WC's and kept my old school BD 4.5 & 6. The WC walked a little less, but were a wee bit tricky to place with their trigger.
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Since I have these...

My copy of the second is not blacked out if anyone wants to PM me for it.

cam sizes

sizes

Jonathan S · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 176

Another consideration I haven't seen mentioned: take a look at the dimension along the axle of the cam. For the BD #6, it is quite a bit shorter than the usable camming dimension. Why does this matter? A little twist on the cam by rope movement, and it will fall out. This happened to me on a climb at Vedauwoo, resulting in a very long runout.

Lately, I have been partial to using a #3 (green) big-bro instead of BD #6 cam. It is much lighter and a smaller footprint on my harness. It is more finicky to place, but very solid when done correctly.

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

very surprised to hear that people are un-satisfied with the WC #6... IMO its more stable, has a larger range and is easier to push. it also has better spring tension so it pivots less after you finally leave it. I actauly like the range on the BD 5 more than the WC 5. I have a VG9 as as well and its only come on some select routes. however, its been great every time

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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