For respect of the local ranchers, always close the gates after passing through. Approach from the Nolan Pocket side is usually not restricted but there are closures for grazing leases on the Lankin Gap side from March-June. Be polite and non-confrontive to ranchers.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This is the high granite dome/peak seen to the north from the highway between Jeffrey City and Muddy Gap. South side usually always sunny. Best climbing time in late spring/early Summer and Fall. Can be very, very windy. Incredible rock quality...granite. Wow. Very secluded, hour approach from any direction.
Getting There
Can go in through Lankin Gap, but this is closed in March-June for grazing. Can be very wet, 4WDish in spots. I prefer to approach from Agate Flat Road to the west. This way is open year round, except of course when it's drifted in with snow. Did I forget to tell you about winter out here? As in driving to Prudhoe Bay in February? Anyway,this road heads north from the highway between Jeffrey City and Muddy Gap. Drive to the second cattle grate past the Sweetwater River bridge, turn right and drive up the fence line on a sandy track that goes out left after a few hundred feet, heading toward a gap between the hills. Go through a gate and across a little swamp. Drive east to the second "road" that goes right, usually very beaten down by cattle with a salt lick here. Wander out this scratch in the dirt, can be a bit on the 4WD edge. Go to a patch of trees at the base of the hill west of Lankin Dome above. This is Nolan Pocket. Park here. Hike up slabs and stuff to the gap below the descent route on the west side. Walk down the gulch paralleling the south face, something of a trail here. Keep going until you see the big crack system splitting the center of the south side (Tree Route). Probably don't need 4WD to get in, Ed and I have gotten around out there in his little Mazda just fine and the sound of sagebrush and small stones rubbing the bottom of the truck is actually rather soothing. But, high clearance is pretty nice. Takes about 45 mins to 1 hour to get from the car to the Tree Route, or so it seems.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lankin Dome:
Tree Route 5.8 Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
If you enjoy moderate granite slab climbing, you'll love this obscure gem! There is an excellent topo of the route in Collins & White's Lander Rock guide. The climbing is generally moderate with some more difficult (5.9) slab climbing coming on the 4th and 5th pitches. Descend by walking off to the west down the Cowboy Route. (This could be very dangerous if wet!)...[more]Browse More Classics in WY
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