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Elevation: | 8,000 ft |
GPS: |
42.53256, -107.56149 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 29,321 total · 159/month |
Shared By: | bob branscomb on Mar 18, 2009 · Updates |
Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Access Issue: Sticky situation
Details
This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
Access Issue: Close gates after passing through
Details
For respect of the local ranchers, always close the gates after passing through. Approach from the Nolan Pocket side is usually not restricted but there are closures for grazing leases on the Lankin Gap side from March-June. Be polite and non-confrontive to ranchers.
Description
This is the high granite dome/peak seen to the north from the highway between Jeffrey City and Muddy Gap.
South side usually always sunny. Best climbing time in late spring/early Summer and Fall. Can be very, very windy. Incredible rock quality...granite. Wow. Very secluded, hour approach from any direction.
South side usually always sunny. Best climbing time in late spring/early Summer and Fall. Can be very, very windy. Incredible rock quality...granite. Wow. Very secluded, hour approach from any direction.
Getting There
Can go in through Lankin Gap, but this is closed in March-June for grazing. Can be very wet, 4WDish in spots.
I prefer to approach from Agate Flat Road to the west. This way is open year round, except of course when it's drifted in with snow. Did I forget to tell you about winter out here? As in driving to Prudhoe Bay in February? Anyway,this road heads north from the highway between Jeffrey City and Muddy Gap. Drive to the second cattle grate past the Sweetwater River bridge, turn right and drive up the fence line on a sandy track that goes out left after a few hundred feet, heading toward a gap between the hills. Go through a gate and across a little swamp. Drive east to the second "road" that goes right, usually very beaten down by cattle with a salt lick here. Wander out this scratch in the dirt, can be a bit on the 4WD edge. Go to a patch of trees at the base of the hill west of Lankin Dome above. This is Nolan Pocket. Park here. Hike up slabs and stuff to the gap below the descent route on the west side. Walk down the gulch paralleling the south face, something of a trail here. Keep going until you see the big crack system splitting the center of the south side (Tree Route). Probably don't need 4WD to get in, Ed and I have gotten around out there in his little Mazda just fine and the sound of sagebrush and small stones rubbing the bottom of the truck is actually rather soothing. But, high clearance is pretty nice.
Takes about 45 mins to 1 hour to get from the car to the Tree Route, or so it seems.
I prefer to approach from Agate Flat Road to the west. This way is open year round, except of course when it's drifted in with snow. Did I forget to tell you about winter out here? As in driving to Prudhoe Bay in February? Anyway,this road heads north from the highway between Jeffrey City and Muddy Gap. Drive to the second cattle grate past the Sweetwater River bridge, turn right and drive up the fence line on a sandy track that goes out left after a few hundred feet, heading toward a gap between the hills. Go through a gate and across a little swamp. Drive east to the second "road" that goes right, usually very beaten down by cattle with a salt lick here. Wander out this scratch in the dirt, can be a bit on the 4WD edge. Go to a patch of trees at the base of the hill west of Lankin Dome above. This is Nolan Pocket. Park here. Hike up slabs and stuff to the gap below the descent route on the west side. Walk down the gulch paralleling the south face, something of a trail here. Keep going until you see the big crack system splitting the center of the south side (Tree Route). Probably don't need 4WD to get in, Ed and I have gotten around out there in his little Mazda just fine and the sound of sagebrush and small stones rubbing the bottom of the truck is actually rather soothing. But, high clearance is pretty nice.
Takes about 45 mins to 1 hour to get from the car to the Tree Route, or so it seems.
Classic Climbing Routes at Lankin Dome
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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