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Arctic Temple
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arctic Arete T 
Drunks in Tow T 
Hoodoo Temple T 
Kaleidescope T 
Land of the Midnight Sun T 
Wild Turkey Arete T 

Land of the Midnight Sun 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eric Tipton, Kenn Kenaga, Pat Brennan (2000)
Page Views: 367
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 2, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Greg standing just left of the start of Land of th...

Description 

Excellent route with good gear placements. Straight up and follow the right traversing hand to off-hands crack (crux) which ends on a good ledge/stance. After the traverse, follow the right hand and finger crack up to the tree and top out as per usual.

Location 

Farthest right route that is not the arete (Wild Turkey Arete). Start just left of the giant cave-like block.

Protection 

Gear to 3" (double #3 camalots nice)


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By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 3, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The awkward 3" opening splitter crack leans heavily to the right, moving parallel to the steep hillside. As a result, you don't really get out of groundfall range for a while with this one, and you'll want at least 2 #3 cams to protect it adequately. I thought this was challenging for the grade