Excellent route with good gear placements. Straight up and follow the right traversing hand to off-hands crack (crux) which ends on a good ledge/stance. After the traverse, follow the right hand and finger crack up to the tree and top out as per usual.
Farthest right route that is not the arete (Wild Turkey Arete). Start just left of the giant cave-like block.
Gear to 3" (double #3 camalots nice)
|By Simon Hatfield|
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 3, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
The awkward 3" opening splitter crack leans heavily to the right, moving parallel to the steep hillside. As a result, you don't really get out of groundfall range for a while with this one, and you'll want at least 2 #3 cams to protect it adequately. I thought this was challenging for the grade