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 ADVANCED
a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
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Alphonse 
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Disney Point 
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Fat Stick Direct 5.10b 
G-String Giants 
Gelsa 
Grand Central 
Hounds, The 
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Inverted Layback 
Kansas City 
Land of The Giants 
Layback 
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Te Dum 
Yellow Belly 
Yellow Ridge 

Land of The Giants 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jeff Greunberg and Scott Franklin, 1985
Page Views: 544
Submitted By: Benjaminadk on Oct 10, 2012
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Description 

Tried to warm up on Gelsa and instead of traversing left at a piton 20' up I went straight up. Initial moves up are a bit bouldery and then it settles into nice thin crack and face climbing to a small left facing corner. Climb corner and step right to bolted anchors. Turns out this pitch was real nice. Very exciting when expecting 5.4.



This ONLY describes pitch one. The upper pitches are 10a/b and not recommended in guidebook.


Location 

Start as for Gelsa. Instead of traversing left at the piton 20' up continue straight up through a thin crack system to a steep left facing corner. Climb corner and step right to bolted anchors of Fat City Direct. Lowered with a 70m. I do not know if a 60m would make it.


Protection 

Gear is good. Lots of gear in the fingers range. Couple pitons. Nuts. Bolt anchor at top.



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By Curt Dvonch
Sep 8, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

There is a big move to get past the thin crack above the piton. The lack of feet makes it difficult for anyone under 6' tall. Those 6' and taller will still find it spicy.