If your looking for an adventurous route with some slightly runout climbing and no crowds then "Land of the Free" is your climb. The route is 10 pitches long and the pitch grades are as follows (11d, 4th class, 10a, 10c, 10d, 11b, 11d, 11b, 11c, 12b). The bolts on most of the pitches are "well spaced" but they're adequate if your a solid 5.11 climber. You could also bring a small selection of cams (mostly small) for placements between bolts if you want.
The route starts up a full on bucket pulling roof but the climbing is vastly different after the first pitch. The 3rd, 4th and 5th pitches are just off vertical to vertical with technical face climbing and occasional cracks. The next four pitches are vertical to slightly overhanging and have short 5.11 sections with 5.10 climbing in between. The final pitch is hard right off the belay and ends under a big roof.
You should expect some loose rock, vegetation and a little dirty climbing but over all the route is pretty solid and the climbing is great. A 70m rope is needed to rap the route.
"Land of the Free" starts right in the middle of the overhanging part of the crag between "Natural Mystic" and "Freedom Fries"
Every pitch is bolted with several bolts at each anchor.
Climber on the 3rd pitch of "Land of the Free...
By Paul Irby
From: moab, ut
Dec 30, 2013
A neglected classic. This is one of Potrero' s finest long routes.
The apache line is a good option for the first pitch.