Type: Trad, Sport, 180 ft (55 m) Fixed Hardware (7)
FA: Richard and Joyce Rossiter
Page Views: 7,867 total · 28/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Apr 14, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is an excellent pitch; one of the finest face climbs in Eldorado!

Begin in the first gully formed by the two fins on the left when facing the crag. The first bolt is 40' up on the left wall of the gully. The route more or less follows a direct line up the face. Start by climbing up to a left-angling hand traverse 30' up (#3 Camalot) and traverse left on good holds to a stance 20' below the first bolt. Crank up to the first bolt on pretty runout 5.8, and crank out cool less-than-vertical balance and edging moves up to some good holds from which you can clip the second bolt. Crank straight up to a third bolt, and do some judicious route finding to find a fourth bolt 40' above you.

This is not a sport climb; gear is very useful for this next section, perhaps a #0.75 or #1 Camalot will work, otherwise it is a 40' runout with a 5.8 mantle at the end. Clip the fourth bolt and wander up on 10- moves to the base of a flared crack. This crack looks like it takes small Stoppers in some places, however I was out of gear that would fit anything at this point and just traversed left and followed the 5.6 arete to the belay for another 40' runout. The regular route continues up this crack to an obvious bolt, then to the belay. The crack is 9+. This route is fairly safe with the right gear; it wasn't too well bolted though. Expect to run it out a healthy distance on 5.8 climbing.

A double-rope rap off the top brings you to the ground.

Protection Suggest change

There are five bolts in 180'; bring some gear. A #3 Camalot is helpful in the beginning, otherwise bring a selection of small-to-midrange Stoppers and TCUs. A #4 Camalot can be placed 20' after the fourth bolt. Bring some longer runners to alleviate rope drag.

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