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Routes in 02. Gulley No.1 Buttress
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Cody's Lament T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X |
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Coin de la Souris T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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First Shot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ground Zero T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Invasion of the Booty Snatchers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Land Ahoy T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Lead Poisoning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Life By the Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mice & Men T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mouseketeers T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Part the Sea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rodent Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Superior Races, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Ten Comandments (Mid-cliff start), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | Todd Swain - solo, then placed bolts on rappel |
| Page Views: | 701 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Oct 9, 2015 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
This route climbs the face to the right of the right-facing corner of "Life by the Tracks". Looking up one believes it devoid of protection, but the leader climbing with a set of small-to-medium wired stoppers and an open mind will find "just enough" protection.
START: about 20ft Left of Hattie's Garden, which is also about 20 ft right of the "toe" of the slab, directly below a sort of "arrowhead" flake that points downwards. The "point" is about 3 ft off the ground. Alternate start: A little further left, directly below two left-facing "half moon" flakes; climb up and place gear in a flake high on the left, climb up to the right, them back up and left to the corner.
P1 - Up past the thin Left-facing flake (gear=nut behind) then up to a 2" horizontal that leads back [Alt] to near the top of the corner. From the top of the corner, climb excellent rock past two bolts (3/8" replacments for Todd's original 1/4") to the two-bolt anchor 'shared' with Hattie's Garden. 115-120 ft 5.7 [A single 70 meter makes it to the ground; otherwise use two ropes; or rap left to the "Part the Sea" P1 double bolt anchor, then a 2nd rap down from there to the ground. ]
Alternative - Climb the thinner face directly above the 2" ledge. Possibly the route of FA. More difficult (5.8 +? R-ish)
P2- (Seldom done, not recently cleaned) Up to the right past a bolt.
START: about 20ft Left of Hattie's Garden, which is also about 20 ft right of the "toe" of the slab, directly below a sort of "arrowhead" flake that points downwards. The "point" is about 3 ft off the ground. Alternate start: A little further left, directly below two left-facing "half moon" flakes; climb up and place gear in a flake high on the left, climb up to the right, them back up and left to the corner.
P1 - Up past the thin Left-facing flake (gear=nut behind) then up to a 2" horizontal that leads back [Alt] to near the top of the corner. From the top of the corner, climb excellent rock past two bolts (3/8" replacments for Todd's original 1/4") to the two-bolt anchor 'shared' with Hattie's Garden. 115-120 ft 5.7 [A single 70 meter makes it to the ground; otherwise use two ropes; or rap left to the "Part the Sea" P1 double bolt anchor, then a 2nd rap down from there to the ground. ]
Alternative - Climb the thinner face directly above the 2" ledge. Possibly the route of FA. More difficult (5.8 +? R-ish)
P2- (Seldom done, not recently cleaned) Up to the right past a bolt.
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