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Easy moves up an initial blocky section lead to the long hands to fist/rattly fist crack that makes up the bulk of this route. Two distinct cruxes in this crack. From the stance at the top of the crack, a final, unexpected challenge makes you commit to earn the nicely situated anchors 15 ft higher.
Twenty-five feet climber's right of Henley Quits. You may have to step back a bit to see the fist crack, as the blocky start obscures it when standing directly beneath.
To 4", with extra fist and rattly fist sized pieces. Bolted anchor at the top. Two single-rope raps down Cid's Embrace (the other line that tops out at this anchor) will get you down, or one double-rope rap from the anchor. If you opt for the single rope rap (recommended, to avoid rope snags), stop at the obvious, slung tree 60 ft above the ground to make your second rap.
Chuck following through the squeeze to get to the ...
|By Dave Alden|
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R
A fun rouet that stretches the rope. So much loose rock though, once is enough.
|By Bryan G|
Apr 7, 2011
Don't recall any loose rock on this one, but the anchor could use replacing. This route is a great way to warm up for Henley Quits.
|By Mark P Thomas|
Feb 6, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Loose rock is not a problem on this route. The start has some loose flakes, but you can take the next corner over and step back into the system higher up to avoid it. Apart from the start, there is just a loose chockstone at the beginning of the unexpected challenge. You can pull on it, just don't yank out on it.
Great route overall!
Be wary on the rappels if you're using doubles. The current anchor allows the rope tip to snag on a chockstone at the top just before it pulls through the rings. It doesn't matter whether you stop short or go to the ground first. We got our rope stuck after climbing Lancelot, freed it after climbing Cid's, after which it got stuck again. Fortunately we could pull it enough to pop it out. The rope pulls clear enough from the ground as a single rappel if you pull from the side over by Henley Quits.