|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 115'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||R. Sylvester & M. Klemens, 1970|
|Submitted By:||Sirius on Apr 22, 2007|
|Comments on Lancelot||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Dave Alden
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
|A fun rouet that stretches the rope. So much loose rock though, once is enough.|
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Apr 7, 2011
|Don't recall any loose rock on this one, but the anchor could use replacing. This route is a great way to warm up for Henley Quits.|
By Mark P Thomas
Feb 6, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Loose rock is not a problem on this route. The start has some loose flakes, but you can take the next corner over and step back into the system higher up to avoid it. Apart from the start, there is just a loose chockstone at the beginning of the unexpected challenge. You can pull on it, just don't yank out on it.
Great route overall!
Be wary on the rappels if you're using doubles. The current anchor allows the rope tip to snag on a chockstone at the top just before it pulls through the rings. It doesn't matter whether you stop short or go to the ground first. We got our rope stuck after climbing Lancelot, freed it after climbing Cid's, after which it got stuck again. Fortunately we could pull it enough to pop it out. The rope pulls clear enough from the ground as a single rappel if you pull from the side over by Henley Quits.