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Thin Air Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Freedom T 
Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp T 
Missing Link T 
No Mans Land T 
Pro Choice T 
Rapid Transit T 
Repulsion T 
Saigons, The T 
Standard Route T 
Thin Air T 
Thinner T 
Toe Crack T 
Turner's Flake T 
Windfall T 
Worm Drive S 

Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve Wooding, Dave McDermott '89
Page Views: 477
Submitted By: E thatcher on Oct 4, 2010

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While considered a variation on Missing link, Lancelot link provides an entirely different, and in my opinion, superior experience.

Find your way to the two bolt anchor for windfall. One can climb Thinner, Windfall, Freedom, Pro Choice, Turners Flake or Toe Crack to approach. I find that Freedom or windfall are the best as it makes for a very consistent link up grade wise.

From the anchor, move up and right over some considerably runout 5.easy terrain, aiming for a crack that leads to the unmistakable yellow roofs. There are several pins hidden behind flakes in this area. Depending on where you wonder you may come across them.
Clip a pin at the start of the crack and move up into the first small roof. Pull this (the crux of ML), and aim for the left end of the large roofs on the right. Reach over and clip the bolt, traverse a hair right and pull the roof on some of the most atypical moves you'll find at Cathedral.

After the roof you'll encounter another bolt followed by some heads up (r/pg-13) 5.7 climbing trending right into the Standard Route Chimney. Pick a tree to belay. Finish by scrambling up the Chimney.


The route is located at the extreme right end of the Thin Air face. It starts at a bolt belay below the Thin Air pedestal, pulls the awesome looking yellow roofs to the right of the pedestal, and finishes in the Standard Route Chimney.


Nuts and a thin rack of smaller sized pieces should suffice. Both cruxes are essentially protected by top rope. One can reach high and place a small stopper for crux #1, and crux #2 has a bolt at your waist.

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