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Dickies Cliff
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Gigantor 
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Lancaster Levels Luxor 
Seams like a butt 

Lancaster Levels Luxor 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: George Reid, Todd & Donette Swain, Oct. 1994.
Page Views: 776
Submitted By: Randy Carmichael on Oct 24, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Dickies Cliff & Gnat Man Crag looking SW

Description 

A bulge crux leads to pumpy terrain.

This classic crack is on the right side of Dickies Cliff. Head up easy terrain to a steep crack with an initial roof. Throw in some pro and some jams to negotiate the roof. Above the roof you will find a steep crack with good pro, good jams, and good edges. Near the top the climbing eases off. I think this climb is about 80 feet high.

Descent: Head right / west and 4th class down the gullies on the right side of the cliff. The third narrow gully on climbers right seemed easiest, but be careful.


Protection 

Standard rack to #4 Camalot. A #4 is perfect for protecting the roof. Use medium cams for the anchor (no bolt anchor).



Photos of Lancaster Levels Luxor Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling the bulge <br />Photo Taken by Gigi
Pulling the bulge
Photo Taken by Gigi
aaron up on LLL
aaron up on LLL
Me <br />Photo Taken by Gigi
Me
Photo Taken by Gigi
Me <br />Photo Taken by Gigi
Me
Photo Taken by Gigi
lancaster levels luxor
lancaster levels luxor
Comments on Lancaster Levels Luxor Add Comment
Show which comments
By Frank Mackelstonsonthstein
Jun 22, 2005

What does this route name mean?

By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
Jun 23, 2005

I imagine the route name was inspired by a nearby route called "Stukas Over Disneyland." The Stuka was a German dive-bomber in World War II, so this presents a rather bizarre image for "the happiest place on earth." The Lancaster was a British bomber of the period that would presumably wreak similar havoc in an attack on the Luxor (the pyramidal resort hotel on the Strip).

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 25, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

This is a really good route, probably the best moderate on the two cliffs (Dickies and Gnat Man)- great jams througha bulge and then fun climbing to the top.

Take a standard rack- but do not forget a 4" cam, or you'll hose yourself using a smaller one at the crux.