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 ADVANCED
Secture Demi Lune
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Angel Dust S 
Beauf Story S 
Canabis ou nutella S 
Carte Blanche S 
Changement de Look S 
Chant de cristal S 
El daü S 
Esperanza S 
Gre Blanc S 
Harley Davidson S 
Katina S 
L'ami caouette S 
La Javanaise S 
Les dessous chics S 
Les sucettes à l'anis S 
Marron derriére S 
Marylou S 
Minette a la Plage S 
Mélody Nelson S 
Papyrus S 
Sans Peur et Sanglier S 
Un panda sur la banquise S 

L'ami caouette 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 156
Submitted By: Zach Alberts on Nov 17, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This is one of the finest and most sought after 8a's at Céüse. Great movement up bullet hard limestone with classic ceuse-style pocket pulling. A bouldery start (technical crux)leads to easier, but demanding climbing with well spaced bolts. It is possible to get a shake-out here and there, otherwise its pure resistance climbing to the anchor.

Location 

This route is just to the left of 'changement de look' the name is written at it's base.

Protection 

about 7 or so bolts to a fixed anchor.


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