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Lamb's Slide Conditions?
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By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Jul 29, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my "Bourne Identity" style reboot of The Eiger Sanction. This was from the rough draft's first act.

Howdy, my two best friends from Tennessee are flying out to visit me this week. I'm planning on taking them up Kiener's route on Long's Peak, however, they don't have crampons, and I'm trying to figure out if we need to rent them. I've got a mountaineering axe and two ice tools for us to use for self-arrest and whatnot, but my guess is, that if there's not a dry path up, what snow there will be covering the slide will practically be ice, and kicking steps sans crampons would be a total no-go.

(and yes, I understand that Longs Peak is a serious undertaking, and that it may seem like two dudes from TN without crampons might not seem up for it, however one of them did the Grand Teton with me last year, and the other is a fairly experienced trad climber, I'll be giving them a tutorial/refresher on snow travel and self arrest, and we'll be roped up for Broadway ledges, so please, beta is appreciated, a lecture isn't)


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By Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Jul 29, 2012
Getting up the Great Dihedral on Hallet Peak, RMNP.

Yes, definitely crampons. I've been inquiring into the conditions as of late, and Lamb's Slide is absolutely alpine ice right now. Here's my thread over at 14'ers.com regarding the conditions. Alan Arnette posted some great photos.

14ers.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=36423&p=435468&hilit=la>>>

Rent 'pons, climb the Glacier Rib to the left of Lamb's Slide, and traverse for 200' to Broadway. Bring a few screws so you don't pendulum into the rocks if you take a fall.


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By Cor
Jul 30, 2012
black nasty

+1 crampons.

i think you just need to have them now. the snow is almost gone,
and it is getting into the old ice underneath. the old ice is not rotten, just hard as nails. steel crampons are better than aluminum at this point in the season, i think.

another thought that crosses my mind. what about doing something
on the lower east face up to kieners, like stettners, kors door, etc.

have fun, and safety third!


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By Ryan Marsters
Jul 30, 2012

I posted more conditions in this thread

We did the trail runners/strap-on 'pons thing. With mountaineering boots, it could be climbed/crossed directly a bit easier, at risk and weight.


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By Colorado Mountain School
Jul 30, 2012

Lamb's Slide is in poor condition right now... little snow, ice melting fast with lots of running water and falling rock. Here's a photo from last week. Be safe!
CMS Facebook


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By Guy H.
From Fort Collins CO
Jul 30, 2012
Crux roof on Freeway...

There is also some major rock fall danger right now. I watched multiple 25+ lbs rocks come shooting down in the afternoon. I also heard some major rock fall at night.

I would second the idea of Kor's Door or Malander's, instead of Lamb's slide.


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By Rocky_Mtn_High
From Arvada, CO
Jul 30, 2012
Lamb's Slide

We did Kiener's on Saturday and approached Lamb's Slide around 6am. It is really dirty and ugly, mostly soft ice or snice on top of harder ice, with some runnels of running water. Crampons and axe are mandatory. As Tony suggested, we decided to climb the Rib to the east (climber's left, mostly 3rd class) and traverse 180' across the Slide to the bottom of Broadway. It was fairly easy to cross (the surface ice was quite soft), especially since we each brought along an extra ice tool, and just to be safe, we put in a few screws.

Note that one guy had no trouble ascending Lamb's Slide directly -- with crampons and a single ax -- so that is definitely an option, but I'd be sure to start up early to avoid the inevitable rock fall risk later in the day.


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By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Jul 31, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my "Bourne Identity" style reboot of The Eiger Sanction. This was from the rough draft's first act.

r_m_high wrote:
We did Kiener's on Saturday and approached Lamb's Slide around 6am. It is really dirty and ugly, mostly soft ice or snice on top of harder ice, with some runnels of running water. Crampons and axe are mandatory. As Tony suggested, we decided to climb the Rib to the east (climber's left, mostly 3rd class) and traverse 180' across the Slide to the bottom of Broadway. It was fairly easy to cross (the surface ice was quite soft), especially since we each brought along an extra ice tool, and just to be safe, we put in a few screws. Note that one guy had no trouble ascending Lamb's Slide directly -- with crampons and a single ax -- so that is definitely an option, but I'd be sure to start up early to avoid the inevitable rock fall risk later in the day.


How's the rock quality for anchors on the broadway side? Since my friends will be wearing strap on 'pons, I'd like to keep em on a tight belay across the slide. Also, any use for pickets? Or are we talking just screws?


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By Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Jul 31, 2012
Getting up the Great Dihedral on Hallet Peak, RMNP.

Just went up today and was handed a big ego check by Long's, once again. I thought I could handle climbing Kiener's car-to-car...and I bonked right at Chasm Lake. I'm really disappointed in myself, but back to Lamb's conditions.

We hung out in the cirque for the morning, messed around on the snow and rock down low, and watched the shit show that is Lamb's Slide. It's in *really* poor shape. Like everyone else has said, the rockfall is bad, but it was not just reserved to the later part of the morning. We were there at about 8am and the rocks were coming down already. The ice looked rotten from our vantage point, but I'm really disappointed (but happy for you guys!) to hear that it's soft enough for the traverse to be safe because that would have made my decision tougher.

Also, there were rocks coming down the whole east face today, and there wasn't a single party on any of it (the Diamond included!) to be the cause. Stettner's and Kor's both require snow and ice travel, so choose your approach shoes wisely when you decide not to bring your boots.

In hindsight, the weather was perfect! However, right at about 11am there were quite a few dark clouds building and flying over Long's, so we headed out. About an hour later, the weather was perfect and stayed that way the whole day. Had I known (which is impossible from the cirque), I would have just taken a nap and made an afternoon of Kieners.

Good luck! Bivy if you question your ability to car-to-car it. It's tough lugging 30-40lbs of adequate equipment up there.


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By TILLEYdoes
Aug 1, 2012

Slide looked rough on Sunday (7/29) from above. Cables route may be worth considering as an alternative. It's dry and certainly safer this time of year.


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By Andy Novak
From Golden, Co
Aug 1, 2012
Living the High Life.

TILLEYdoes wrote:
Cables route may be worth considering as an alternative. It's dry and certainly safer this time of year.


The Cable Route is not dry, as of 8/1. Running with water bringing the difficulty up a number grade or two. Still very easy and doable, just be aware. I think Keyhole Ridge is a far better alternative to Kieners than the Cable.


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Aug 2, 2012
Bocan

Anybody seen the conditions on any of the other RMNP snowfields? Was thinking about just doing a walkabout this weekend, but don't really want to solo up steep rotten alpine ice.

Thanks!


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By JustinJD.
From Denver
Aug 9, 2012

"Good luck! Bivy if you question your ability to car-to-car it. It's tough lugging 30-40lbs of adequate equipment up there"
Was thinking about heading up to Longs friday night and was going to try and score a bivy permit. I've never actually requested a permit before...are they hard to get? Do they limit the number offered?

Just curious.
Thanks,

And I'm assuming Cables and Kieners are still wet. Was thinking about Clarks Arrow. Any suggestions?


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By David Appelhans
From Lafayette
Aug 9, 2012
Imaginate

JustinJD. wrote:
"Good luck! Bivy if you question your ability to car-to-car it. It's tough lugging 30-40lbs of adequate equipment up there" Was thinking about heading up to Longs friday night and was going to try and score a bivy permit. I've never actually requested a permit before...are they hard to get? Do they limit the number offered? Just curious. Thanks, And I'm assuming Cables and Kieners are still wet. Was thinking about Clarks Arrow. Any suggestions?


Not hard to get based on demand, but yes they are a pain to get. $20 "administrative fee" to sleep under a rock on land you already paid for, and you have to drive all the way past Estes Park to get a permit at the main office. They close at 6pm I believe, so good luck getting there in time after work.


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By Guy H.
From Fort Collins CO
Aug 9, 2012
Crux roof on Freeway...

David Appelhans wrote:
Not hard to get based on demand, but yes they are a pain to get. $20 "administrative fee" to sleep under a rock on land you already paid for, and you have to drive all the way past Estes Park to get a permit at the main office. They close at 6pm I believe, so good luck getting there in time after work.


You can pick them up at the Long's Peak trailhead before the ranger leaves for the day. (4pm?) I think the maximum for the Mill Glacier area is 14 climbers per night.


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By Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Aug 9, 2012
Getting up the Great Dihedral on Hallet Peak, RMNP.

Guy H. wrote:
You can pick them up at the Long's Peak trailhead before the ranger leaves for the day. (4pm?) I think the maximum for the Mill Glacier area is 14 climbers per night.


Yep, what he said! Don't drive to Estes just for the bivy permit. You *can* get them at the Long's Peak TH Ranger Station. Just call for hours. =)

Agreed, it's a silly amount of money for the amenities, but that view in the morning is worth every penny.


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By Rocky_Mtn_High
From Arvada, CO
Aug 10, 2012
Lamb's Slide

Tony T. wrote:
Yep, what he said! Don't drive to Estes just for the bivy permit. You *can* get them at the Long's Peak TH Ranger Station. Just call for hours. =) Agreed, it's a silly amount of money for the amenities, but that view in the morning is worth every penny.


Yes, indeed. Furthermore, unlike regular backcountry camping permits, you can call ahead of time and reserve a bivy permit by phone from the Backcountry office. The Ranger there recommended we get to the Long's Peak Ranger office by 4:30pm to pick up the permit, since it is staffed exclusively by volunteers and thus no guarantee how long they will keep the office open. We arrived pretty close to 5pm, thanks to some weather and heavy traffic in Boulder, and the volunteer Ranger was still there to give us our bivy permit, thus saving us a trip up to the Park's main entrance (the Backcountry Office closes at 7pm).


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By JustinJD.
From Denver
Aug 10, 2012

r_m_high wrote:
Yes, indeed. Furthermore, unlike regular backcountry camping permits, you can call ahead of time and reserve a bivy permit by phone from the Backcountry office. The Ranger there recommended we get to the Long's Peak Ranger office by 4:30pm to pick up the permit, since it is staffed exclusively by volunteers and thus no guarantee how long they will keep the office open. We arrived pretty close to 5pm, thanks to some weather and heavy traffic in Boulder, and the volunteer Ranger was still there to give us our bivy permit, thus saving us a trip up to the Park's main entrance (the Backcountry Office closes at 7pm).


Thank you for the tip. I would have just driven through to the main office and this will save me a ton of time. I'm hopeful that there won't be another 13 people up there tonight. Now if I could just figure out who I lent my bivy sack to things wil be easier.


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