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Sheep's Nose
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For Wimps Only  T 
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It Is Time to Space aka The Sheep Eat Grass T 
Lamb's Prey T 
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Pimp, The T 
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Ten Years After T 
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Lamb's Prey 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 597
Submitted By: pete cogan on May 11, 2002

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Description 

This is a fun, interesting route with cracks and slabs and routefinding. The first two pitches are the most difficult.

P1 begins right of Lost in Space. There are two very large trees at the base of the cliff; start to the left of the left tree, climbing through a short chimney up to a large rock with a disappearing grassy crack above you. Go up the crack, then work left with a big, slanting roof above you. There is a good belay in a notch, 5.9.

P2 goes up a thin crack which disappears over a bulge. [On your right is the 10b variation in Hubbel's guide.] After the bulge, climb up in a wide, blocky crack and belay in a nice alcove with a 5 foot wide roof above you, 5.9.

These first two pitches are 5.9. After the second pitch, there are several options. What follows is a moderate option.

P3 goes right around the small roof, then use various crack systems and belay above the 3 very solid pitons, 5.8+.

P4 goes through more cracks and then a 5.7-ish slab runout. This pitch was around 170 feet. It has a very nice belay on a grassy/bushy ledge.

P5 goes left around the rock above you along a left-slanting crack, then easy terrain to the summit. It is 140 feet or so.

Descent: walk off to the left and the back side. This is mild downclimbing, no ropes are needed.


Protection 

Standard rack to #3 Camalot. Hubbel suggest wires and #1 Friends. A full set of stoppers, medium hexes, and tri-cams were helpful.



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By pete cogan
May 13, 2002

My apologies: this is definitely at least a 2 star route, not a one star route. I look forward to doing it again.