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This is a fun, interesting route with cracks and slabs and routefinding. The first two pitches are the most difficult.
P1 begins right of Lost in Space
. There are two very large trees at the base of the cliff; start to the left of the left tree, climbing through a short chimney up to a large rock with a disappearing grassy crack above you. Go up the crack, then work left with a big, slanting roof above you. There is a good belay in a notch, 5.9.
P2 goes up a thin crack which disappears over a bulge. [On your right is the 10b variation in Hubbel's guide.] After the bulge, climb up in a wide, blocky crack and belay in a nice alcove with a 5 foot wide roof above you, 5.9.
These first two pitches are 5.9. After the second pitch, there are several options. What follows is a moderate option.
P3 goes right around the small roof, then use various crack systems and belay above the 3 very solid pitons, 5.8+.
P4 goes through more cracks and then a 5.7-ish slab runout. This pitch was around 170 feet. It has a very nice belay on a grassy/bushy ledge.
P5 goes left around the rock above you along a left-slanting crack, then easy terrain to the summit. It is 140 feet or so.
Descent: walk off to the left and the back side. This is mild downclimbing, no ropes are needed.
Standard rack to #3 Camalot. Hubbel suggest wires and #1 Friends. A full set of stoppers, medium hexes, and tri-cams were helpful.
By pete cogan
May 13, 2002
My apologies: this is definitely at least a 2 star route, not a one star route. I look forward to doing it again.