|60 page views|
This is an OK route and one of the easier established lines on this wall. If it were not for the hike up to Sheep Mountain, I'd say this route would see more traffic. Be it as it is though, it doesn't see much traffic, but don't let that deter you from climbing this route. There is some worthwhile climbing to be had. I also found the climbing to be a little bit more strenuous than Gillet makes it out to be in his guidebook. Routefinding was also somewhat tricky but nothing too difficult- it's a bit subtle.
Pitch 1, 80 feet, 5.8: Start in between Pennystone Crag (identified by a pin 20 feet up) and Gimmerton Corner either in the dirty recess or directly up the wide crack. Follow the wide crack up to a stance at a pinnacle like feature, step right into a great hand crack and climb to a left-angling roof. Lieback the left angling roof to the left and belay at a good stance on big cams.
Pitch 2, 140 feet, 5.8+: From the belay go up a shallow, left-facing corner to a stance at another pinnacle/jug feature. Step slightly left into another shallow corner and negotiate this using weird stemming. Climb through another left-facing corner (5.6) which leads to another good stance below a shallow flake. Pull through the crux moves (small nuts for pro, fixed nut) and reach another roof. Traverse 25 feet left to a good stance at some jumbled blocks (be careful not to loosen them) and belay on small gear in a flake. There's a fixed stopper here.
Pitch 3, 160 feet, 5.7: From the belay, climb up to a steep flake system. Lieback up the flake system until it steepens. There are a few loose flakes here... choose your holds wisely. After a few steep and awkward moves of 5.7, easy terrain is gained. Take this to a belay at a tree near the summit.
Descent: Head Northwest and find a talus gully. Follow this to the bottom of the gully and contour back east (left) to the base of the route. 20 minutes.
It is left of Pennystone Crag and right of Gimmerton Corner which is the prominent, left-facing dihedral that splits the wall in the middle.
Standard rack. Extra #0.5, 0.75, 1, and 2 BD Camalots.