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Faulty Tower
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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Peter Croft, Marty Lewis, & Dayle Mazzarella - September, 1999
Page Views: 1,482
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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To the first overlap


Begin just left of the main dihedral of the Faulty Tower at a nice looking finger crack. Ascend this to a high first clip (an Alien is useful to protect this), and then eventually head up the face to the right. Up higher the climb enters a steep right facing dihedral system that has a definite crux which can be negotiated with creative stemming.


15 or so draws. A 70m rope - 60m ropes come up short.

Photos of Lalaland Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bernd  starting up Lalaland
Bernd starting up Lalaland
Rock Climbing Photo: almost to the overhanging section
almost to the overhanging section
Rock Climbing Photo: Bernd leading Lalaland
Bernd leading Lalaland
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Lalaland
The start of Lalaland
Rock Climbing Photo: Traversing out of the crack onto the face
Traversing out of the crack onto the face
Rock Climbing Photo: Bernd prances up the initial steep section
Bernd prances up the initial steep section
Rock Climbing Photo: climbing up the face
climbing up the face
Rock Climbing Photo: Over the first overlap
Over the first overlap

Comments on Lalaland Add Comment
Show which comments
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 7, 2011

As shown in picture, there appears to be a newer bolt on this climb making trad protection pretty unnecessary for all but the most timid.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 2, 2015
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Definitely do not need any gear on this one- you can easily stick clip the second bolt if the first is too low for your liking.

IMHO, this route is harder than its neighbor, but just as good. Pretty amazing chunk of rock to produce two really long, amazing lines like that.

Word to the wise- extend the 2nd and 3rd draws after the roof to reduce drag. I used 24" runners and was pretty happy overall. A longish draw on the first bolt over the roof helps too.
By Simon W
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 11, 2015

This thing is truly excellent.

Still haven't done Santana or Flex your head, but both of those routes have a lot to live up to to unseat this as best 11c in my mind..

Caldera has more wild positioning pulling on to the arete, but the start and finish of this climb are much better. (The perfect hands section at the start of Caldera is fun but the fingers section on this route is more interesting/technical.)

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