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Lake Powell

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A Bit Wide T 
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Goblins Delight 
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Hard Arching Crack T 
Hard Frickin Fingers T 
Hobgoblins Revenge 
Leaning Corner T 
Liebacking T 
Splitter T 
Steep Rings T 
Sunburn Crack S 
Toothrock, Matter in Motion T 
Top Rope Slab TR 
Tower Butte T 
Twighlight Canyon Hueco Cave Traverse S 
Whizisky T 
Your Momma's 5.7 T 

Lake Powell  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,600'
Location: 36.9934, -111.4894 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,221
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: ryan albery on Mar 21, 2009
Forecast:
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This climb is located at the start of the canyon w...

Climbing regulations are in effect. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Endless beautiful cracks along the 700 miles of climbable cliffs that form the shoreline. Navajo and Wingate sandstone. Generally a bit warmer than the Moab area. Adventure climbing with only a few hundred established routes... a lifetime of possibilities. This is truly a spectacular venue for climbing.

Unfortunately, the hundred or so feet of rock below the high water mark (the white stuff) is generally poor for climbing/water soloing.

Beautiful camps abound, and driftwood generally makes for easy campfires. A portable shitter is required if you're more than a quarter mile from a marina.

Getting There 

Need a boat to get to the good stuff! Skiff rentals around $40 a day during the off season (best weather for climbing). Houseboats are very expensive ($3000+ a week). Sea kayaks are perfect.

Starting from the dam, the best climbing is between miles 40 and 139, and roughly 20 miles up the San Juan arm. Wingate appears at lake level around mile 115 and continues to 140.

Beautiful 3-5 pitch spires up the Escalante arm (mile 69), though currently difficult to access do to low water.

Hite Marina (at mile 139) is currently closed due to low water (the Colorado River is flowing here). Coming from the north, the best put in is at Bullfrog (south of Hanksville on highway 276), or Halls Crossing from the south. There is a vehicle ferry that operates between these two marinas.

The entire lake is inside the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, and a fee is required (or a national parks pass). Camping limit in one spot is 14 days, though this is only enforced during the summer months when it's generally too hot for climbing anyway.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.8 miles from here

20 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',6],['5.11',5],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Lake Powell
the obvious crack

Hard Arching Crack 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  UT : Lake Powell
difficult ring locks- not yet freed...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Lake Powell Slideshow Add Photo
Starting from a kayak. Knowles canyon.
Starting from a kayak. Knowles canyon.
Numerous routes on this formation (lake mile 127).  The little spire on the right goes at hard 11.
Numerous routes on this formation (lake mile 127)....
a handful of routes in the 9-11 range on this formation around lake mile 50.
a handful of routes in the 9-11 range on this form...
Huecos!
Huecos!
Boat start.
Boat start.
Gunsight Butte near mile 17... made it up two pitches on the south side, bailed from a bolt.
Gunsight Butte near mile 17... made it up two pitc...
After the boat leaves it's just you, rock and water. This climb is located in a small Ampitheatre at the west end of the Tapestry wall.
After the boat leaves it's just you, rock and wate...
Steep and deep!
Steep and deep!
Half way.
Half way.
Again steep than it looks!
Again steep than it looks!
This route is much steep that the photos lend you to believe. It's about 5.10 and has an obvious end about 30 ft up. Descent is the dangle and drop!
This route is much steep that the photos lend you ...
Sweet dws on the lake.
Sweet dws on the lake.

Comments on Lake Powell Add Comment
Show which comments
By Albert Newman
Jan 22, 2011
Please keep in mind that all bolts, pitons and other fixed gear should be removed. Climbing here is a privilege and we should follow the regulations set forth by the National Park Service.

nps.gov/glca/parkmgmt/loader.c...
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 26, 2011
It doesn't say anything there about bolts. I'd be happy to not use fixed anchors when the big piece of concrete near Page is removed. Until then, hypocrisy of the most ludicrous sort.
By Albert Newman
Feb 2, 2011
This is pasted from page 4 of the regulations:

The requirement that all gear, including pitons, chocks, or other climbing aids be removed and the prohibition
against use of glues, chock, or other aids, is intended to preserve the natural character of cliff faces and preclude
visual disturbances which may occur should devices or evidence be left in place.


Please exercise good judgment climbing in Glen Canyon NRA.
By Bill Duncan
From: Jamestown, CO
Oct 6, 2011
Just FYI...this is a duplicate area. The Glen Canyon National Recreation Area has been posted since 2006.