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Lake Mary Bouldering

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Lakeview Campground 
Ridge, The 

Lake Mary Bouldering  

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Elevation: 7,000'
Location: 35.1128, -111.5826 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 38,855
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 16, 2008
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Joel U. on Breakfast In Hell V3


The bouldering areas above Lake Mary consist of the long stretching limestone band that runs from the Pit on the west, all the way to FR 128 on the east, where the limestone finally peaters out, and basalt starts to take over. FR 128 marks the start of Anderson Mesa, a basalt cap that dominates much of the north side of Upper Lake Mary. There are miles of basalt outcroppings above the highway, but the most traveled area is above the Lakeview Campground.

These are old areas that have been climbed at for a long time, by a lot of good climbers. Robert Drysdale and friends established the Booze Pig Wall in the early nineties, along side the development of Priest Draw. Most of these bands remain exploratory at this point, however, there are several areas that are certainly more condensed, and offer up a good concentration of excellent problems. There are hundreds of undocumented problems at the Ridge.

All of these areas are accessed off of Lake Mary road, with short uphill approaches, and views of Lower and Upper Lake Mary, as well as Mormon Mountain off to the south east. The mostly southern aspect makes these areas a real treat in the fall, spring, and even in the dead of winter depending upon the year. These areas will require seasonal cleanings, especially after winter and the monsoons. If you get up there and find a fine layer a silt over everything, rest well in the knowledge that you are the first person up there in probably a long time. Usually a stick brush or broom will suffice to get rid of the surface silt, though having a short rope and harness to inspect the higher problems isn't a bad idea.

Getting There 

From Flagstaff, find your way onto Lake Mary road and drive east...

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.7 miles from here

65 Total Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',39],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lake Mary Bouldering:
Still Waters   V2 5+     Boulder, 12'    Stone Cove : The Cove Wall
Undercling Fling   V2-3 5+     Boulder, 15'   The Booze Pig Area : Booze Pig Wall
Streets of Laredo   V3 6A     Boulder   The Booze Pig Area : Long Ryders Wall
Backwaters   V3+ 6A+     Boulder, 12'    Stone Cove : The Cove Wall
On Liquor I Spent My Last Dime   V5-6 6C+     Boulder   The Booze Pig Area : Booze Pig Wall
Booze Pig   V6 7A     Boulder, 18'   The Booze Pig Area : Booze Pig Wall
Bottle Is A Bible   V7 7A+     Boulder, 15'   The Booze Pig Area : Booze Pig Wall
Browse More Classics in Lake Mary Bouldering

Featured Route For Lake Mary Bouldering
Dean starting up the thing.

No News is Good News V5+ 6C+  AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : NPR wall
No News is Good News starts on the slopey pocket jug on the seam right of Morning Edition. From that hold work your way up to a slopey crimp rail. From there, move up to a sharp vertical pocket pinch. Always moving up and slightly right, with an insecure heal hook move up into a tight two finger with the right, and slopey butter dish just aside the pocket... These holds are very close together and constitute a match really. Up to the top from there. Very cool moves on this one. Kinda trick...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Comments on Lake Mary Bouldering Add Comment
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By Jason Funk
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 13, 2009
This is great exploratory bouldering, especially for the colder months. I used to live in Flag a few years ago and would be amazed that hardly anyone had the energy to hike a little bit off the beaten path, funny considering the masses at the draw and the pit close by. Glad to see some interest in the area.
By Jeff Ludwig
From: phoenix, Az
Mar 23, 2011
The Lake Mary area has the best limestone bouldering on the planet. As difficult it may be to step away from the Draw, kudos to the new climbers that are keeping alive the Land of High Bouldering.
By David Gershwin
From: San Diego, CA.
Dec 31, 2011
I agree with Jeff, and cheers to JJ for compiling, sorting through, and condensing all the (sometimes conflicting) info on this area. Not only have you established some great-looking problems up there, but you've done an excellent job of researching and documenting the climbing history of this special place. Thanks, David
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 31, 2011
Thanks David. When it comes to the Ridge, it is my pleasure. Rob and I grew up in the same town, though he died the year I started climbing, so we never had a chance to meet in person. However, I heard many a story about the "Condor" as they called him back in Wisconsin. He was obviously talented on the stone, but also had the keen eye for good lines. The latter, being a skill our mutual mentor Dave Groth instilled in both of us. And thank god he did. I think Rob would be psyched to see the sports action going down, as Flagstaff starts to remember this timeless stone.

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