This site has open access but please respect the rights of the land owner and pick up your trash. The local citizenry donates enough of its trash to the area. Has three bolted routes I believe put up by a local pro named Ian. Two of these routes can also be setup by toprope, possibly the third as well but not recommended.
Leaving Tuscumbia: Head on Hwy 157 towards Cullman and turn right on Lagrange College Ln there should be a historical sign for Lagrange college (follow the sign). After turning off of 157 proceed straight, even as the road goes right. Go staight towards the water tower/silo and park next to it. Facing the tower head left and walk about 100m to your left and you will see the routes.
I highly recommend toproping this route the first time. I used my best estimate on the grade of this route judging from previous climbs at Sandrock, etc.. The route starts in the obvious shallow crack and then proceeds directly up into horizontal shelf. The crux is after the second bolt....[more]Browse More Classics in AL
If this is the place I'm thinking about, we climbed there back in the mid to late 80's. We included myself, James Dobbs, and Joe Keenum. Joe introduced me to the place and we did some mountain biking on some dirt roads in the same area. The main route was the most obvious line on the tallest part of the cliff, it was quite steep and we placed a fixed pin in a horizontal and maybe a bolt or two on it. The bolts were probably the petzl self drives and there were a couple of horozontals for cams. We called it "parlez vous redneck" and it was likely 5.10 or so. I rap cleaned it, we TR'd it, and came back later and placed the gear on it and we led it. I think we TR'd a line to the left of it, but didn't think it was worth bolting at the time. If I'm remembering the right place, there's little else to do there because the cliff is not very wide.
We did re-establish the line that you guys climbed. The bolts had been chopped and I know the horizontal that takes decent gear that I suppose you placed a pin into. Ian added three new bolts and an anchor during the fall of 2008. The route is spicy, but safe, as the first bolt comes at around 20 feet. I believe we veered right near the top instead of going straight up, opting to take the route over to a massive iron chicken head that makes for a great end to the route below the chossy roof. We called it B10, for the bomber. Spectacular, pumpy route with incredible sandstone holds and a few iron protrusions. Straight out of the Red River Gorge...