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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Sweeny & Royal Robbins, 1978
Season: summer and fall
Page Views: 311
Submitted By: S.Mckinna on Aug 28, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: John hiding from potential rockfall at the start.


This route starts up a short overhang that gains a large ledge with a bush. From there, gain the thin crack above. Now about 20 feet up, the rock becomes more solid. Climb along the thin crack transfering into another to the right as you move up. Gain a large ledge and move up into a short crack system that is more solid than it looks. Top out and belay the second. There are ample placements along the way, but I think some cam placements could be bad news if it caught a fall, so be aware!


This is on the west side, toward the entrance, next route down and left from the obvious route Othello. Start up a strenuous overhang above a bunch of rasberry bushes. It has a loose start.


Double rack micro up to #2 Camalot and small stoppers plus a bunch of runners (10 or more). Bring more thin gear if you want to sew it. There is a big tree at the top to extend your belay and rap from. Telluride Rocks notes the tree to be a 120 foot rap, we used 2 60m ropes. It seemed like one may work but didn't pay attention due to a storm, maybe someone else has input?

Photos of Lago Slideshow Add Photo
Up into the thin crack on solid rock.
Up into the thin crack on solid rock.
From the thin crack, continue up going right around the next bush to the tree at the top.
BETA PHOTO: From the thin crack, continue up going right aroun...
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