crossing some private property on access trail MORE INFO >>>
Please stay on the established trail as it crosses private property. Keep a low profile and please be respectful of this access through private property.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
BETA PHOTO: Laghel right hand sector on the left, Castle Arco ...
Description
With a great view of Arco Castle, a variety of routes from 4a to 8a+, single to multi pitch, Laghel commands superb position just above and to the north of Arco.
Great views of Arco, the surrounding valley, and from the top of the crag, views to lake Garda and over to the Sarca river and valley below (though the saddle in front of the Arco Castle).
Good rock, with cracks and face climbing facing south and fairly sheltered: good location for colder days.
Supplemental protection is recommended as some of the bolted routes also have pitons of dubious (and amusing) quality. A selection of nuts and cams is nice for protecting some of the crack features that aren’t fully bolted.
Laghel is located on the southern side of Monte Colordri, at the sector Rupe Secca Sud (dry cliff south).
In the guidebook Arco Rock, this area is known as Laghel and is broken up into Left Sector and Right Sector. In Pareti del Sarca, this area is Rupe Secca Sud in the Colodori section of that guidebook.
Hey, I can see my motel from here!
Getting There
From the A22 freeway, exit onto the S240 in the direction of Riva del Garda. At Nago, take the 240d to Arco. Cross the bridge over the Sarca river into the center of Arco.
Alternatively, if coming from Trento/Dro, south on the S45b, cross the same bridge into Arco.
Drive on the main road into Arco in the direction of Riva del Garda. In town, turn right following signs indicating Laghel/Castello di Arco. Pass the park, Parco Arciducale, and Porta Stranforio, on your left. A small road will lead you up towards Via Crusis. At the junction of the one way, parking is available at the large parking lot for the Castle Arco. The one-way road continues up with a small parking lot on the left.
If you park down low at the Castle parking lot, hike up the road. For the right-hand sector (Settore Destro), a small trail winds straight towards the rock, past garden terraces and crossing old, ruined walls, at a point where the road bends sharply back to the left (west). If heading towards the left-hand sector (Settore Sinistro), proceed to the small parking pullout on the left and note the trail heading up to the rock from there.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Laghel:
Climb up weaknesses to a right-trending ramp with leads to the belay shared with the first pitch of Fessura del Bonjo. 5bAscend broken face on good rock up then slightly left following the occasional bolt and old, unneeded fixed pins (some quite amusing). This pitch could be extended past the underhanging corner traverse right to a large stance below the final pitch, or, belay at the right facing corner then continue to the aforementioned stance. 5b/5cClimb up a neat shallow bookish face, fair...[more]Browse More Classics in International
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