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 ADVANCED
Wonder Wall
Select Route:
Arno's Corrner T 
Ladyslipper T 
Last Unicorn, The T 
Rain Dance T 
Route to Root T 
Science Friction Wall S 
Sky Streak T 
Three Saints T 
Waiting for Webster T,TR 
Wonder Wall T 
Wonders Never Cease T 

Ladyslipper 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Webster & Patenaude, '79
Page Views: 468
Submitted By: cjdrover on Oct 9, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: P2 of Ladyslipper (5.9+) on the upper Wonder Wall....

Description 

Ladyslipper climbs the improbable-looking face directly above the large flake on the Upper Wonder Wall ledge. It can be thought of as a direct start to Harvest, which climbs the dihedral/flake 20 feet to the left.

P1) From the Upper Wonder Wall Ledge, climb the corner below a large flake with a tree on top (careful of loose blocks!) Belay from the tree. (5.6ish, 50 feet)

P2) Continue to the top of flake and clip a bolt. Make devious, technical moves up to the second bolt, trending right, then continue up to a flake system. Carefully fish out a gear placement or two (finger-sized cams) and climb to the top of the flakes. More technical moves take you through another 3 bolts to a stance below the main corner. Make a committing step to the left with the bolt well below your feet to reach the crack system. Jam (hand-sized cams) and stem your way up the corner to reach a 2-bolt anchor at the top of a huge block/flake - perhaps the best belay seat in North Conway? (5.9+, 75 feet)

If you really want to top out, head left and join the end of Harvest at 5.7R, but it really isn't worth it unless that sort of thing matters to you.


Location 

See another description for accessing the upper Wonder Wall Ledge. Find the obvious 40 foot high flake with a tree near the top.

Protection 

5 QD's + basic cams fingers to hands, maybe a few nuts.

Some old texts might give this an R rating but the fixed gear was recently replaced, all 5 bolts are nice shiny steel. It is heady but reasonably safe.

Two ropes helpful, though the tree at the first belay has rap rings.


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