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The Optimator
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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar 
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Ditch 'em 
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Optimator 
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Unsorted Routes:

Lady Pillar 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Sibylle Hechtel and Keith Reynolds
Page Views: 2,298
Submitted By: Danny Inman on May 3, 2005
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Description 

This route is left of the large fallen pillar. The route follows a left leaning crack system. The crack begins small and gets bigger as you climb higher. Because the route leans, you need a 60-meter rope to get to the ground. A worth while route. There is a two-bolt anchor with some webbing.


Protection 

variety of cams (camalots .3 - # 3)



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This pic shows the start of the route (in yellow)
BETA PHOTO: This pic shows the start of the route (in yellow)
better than it looks in the photo
better than it looks in the photo
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By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
May 4, 2005

I tried to put a pic showing the route, but it messed up twice, sorry...

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 14, 2005
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Interesting route. Seemed soft for the grade (at least by IC standards). Red and yellow aliens for the start (probably the technical crux), #0.75 Camalot, #1 Camalot, 2x#2 Camalots, 2x3 Camalots, and one #3.5 Camalot (not really neccessary) right before the chains. The top crack had lots of feet and rests.

By Braxtron
From: ...
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Rad climb!! If you're looking to push your lead climbing limit, this one's a good candidate for you. It's not sustained and the gear is good and plentiful.

By karcbr
Jun 2, 2008

The lady pillar was a great warm up route for this area, I origionally climbed this route with sibylle hechtel, we were doing a first ascent, perhaps 5.9, a beautiful lady deserves a beautiful climb. I'm sure we were the first ones to put in the anchors. I don't remember seeing Josh that day. Keith Reynolds

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009

Fun route and great, easy warm-up. Crux is the twin yellow alien cracks to get started then it's super cruiser after that. #2s with plenty of rest feet all the way up.