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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Moon Arising 
Big Sky 
Comeback Corner 
Falling Stars 
Hot Flash 
Lady Luck 
NOPE.NOPE. NOPE.NOPE.NOPE. 
Rising Moons 
Romanian Rib - Left Side 
Smiley Face 
Smooth Sailing 
Sunset Slab 
Sunset Slab Direct 

Lady Luck 

5.7

   
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Type: Trad, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
FA: Monica Miller, Catherine Conner, Jodie Bostrom, Larry DeAngelo
New Route: Yes
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Apr 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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BETA PHOTO: Overview of Lady Luck and Big Sky routes.

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Description 

I try to resist giving out too many stars, but this route deserves them. Good line. One thousand feet of easy climbing on perfect sandstone. An occasional minor crux thrown in to keep it interesting. This could be the best route on the First Creek Slabs.

The first three pitches ascend excellent slabs to good belays on comfortable ledges. On the third pitch go up and left (where Big Sky moves right to the next rib) and set up a belay beneath a beautifully varnished left-facing corner. Pitch 4 goes straight up the corner and exits right to a small belay perch even with the big overhangs. Pitch 5 does not continue up the crack, but instead makes a few improbable, but easy, steps left to gain a finger crack directly above the overhang. Continue up the rib, locating belays when suitable anchor options are available. The route finishes up the clean hand crack in a small, right-facing dihedral. (This is the same finish as Sunset Slab, which has joined this route from the left.)

Although the climbing on this route is rarely more difficult than 5.2, it still maintains a good level of interest. Protection options on the slab are limited, routefinding is important, and belay sites must be chosen with care. Beyond that, the route is fairly long for a beginning climber, and retreat would require leaving gear.


Location 

Hike in the First Creek trail and climb to the top of the hillside beneath Rising Moons. Scramble and bushwhack right (west) along the base of the cliff. Continue about 60 feet beyond the jutting overhang of Big Sky.


Protection 

Standard rack, maybe some extras on the small stuff



Photos of Lady Luck Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down the Lady Luck slab from the top of the second pitch.

Looking down the Lady Luck slab from the top of th...

At the top of pitch 3

At the top of pitch 3

The pitch 4 corner is the varnished dihedral on the right side of this alcove.

BETA PHOTO: The pitch 4 corner is the varnished dihedral on th...

Looking down the varnished corner of pitch 4.  The belay at the top of pitch 4 is on the left.  This picture was taken from near the beginning of the fifth pitch, above the large overhang.

Looking down the varnished corner of pitch 4. The...

Partway up Pitch 5

Partway up Pitch 5

The upper slabs on pitch 6.

The upper slabs on pitch 6.

Approaching the final corner.

Approaching the final corner.

great exposure - beautiful views!

great exposure - beautiful views!

having fun near the top

having fun near the top

looking down from the bottom of the last pitch

looking down from the bottom of the last pitch

Looking down the pitch 7 corner.

Looking down the pitch 7 corner.

Looking down the first pitch.

Looking down the first pitch.

The bizarre rock on pitch 2.

The bizarre rock on pitch 2.

Pitch 3.

Pitch 3.

P4 dihedral.

P4 dihedral.

Top of pitch 5.

Top of pitch 5.

The long pitch 6.

The long pitch 6.

"Small ledge system traversing left" on the way down (before rappels).  This is actually the highest point reached during the route.  Marked by several cairns.

"Small ledge system traversing left" on the way do...

4th pitch

4th pitch

from the bottom of pitch 6

from the bottom of pitch 6


Comments on Lady Luck Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 12, 2013
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 2, 2008

This climb shares the same last 2 fantastic pitches as Sunset Slab.

By Scott McLeod
Apr 3, 2008

Whats the descent?

By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 4, 2008
rating: 5.7

Descend as per the standard First Creek Slabs descent. Here's a picture describing the way down. It involves 4 rappels with a single 60m and some downclimbing.

By Karl K
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 13, 2008

Excellent fun!
Here is my breakdown of the pitches:
#1: 120' to big ledge; funky seam start then trend right up the middle of the face; 5.4
#2: 150' to trees/bushes; middle of the face; 5.3
#3: 200'+ to huge ledge below varnished corner; fun face; 5.3
we had a 60m rope and had to move the belay 20 feet into the corner
#4: 110' up varnished corner; fun & easier than it looks, maybe 5.6 at the top; very small stance for belay 5.6
#5: 180' Head left just above the overhangs, then wander up the face. I kept mostly to the left side.5.3
#6: 200' Straight up the fun varnished face, mostly in the middle, aiming toward the right side. A belay appears just as you are about to give up hope (about 50' below the start of the finishing hand crack); 5.3
#7: 90' up the face to the obvious corner; its good climbing, but will be great if the lichen ever clears up. 5.7
The 50 yard up-and-right above to find the gully was a full-on thrash through the bushes. We found a small, very exposed ledge system that we traversed to the left after going up the gully. Not obvious.
Once in the gully proper, the descent is eay to follow (head for the big pine tree and turn left..) Downclimbing was not too bad.

New rappel stations are great. Thank you!!!

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 27, 2008
rating: 5.7 PG13

absolutely amazing route- definitely not challenging, but a joy to climb if you're looking for a good day out with friends with no pressure....

couple of notes:

first- if you're going up to the Labryinth Wall- this is the route to do it by. Solo up to the top of the 6th pitch, and short rope the last 5.7 section....

3rd pitch is not 200' from the big ledge- maybe 180' or so.

there's a fairly nice stance on the right side of the rib you can belay for the top of the 5th pitch. however, if you belay here, it is exactly 200' to the next belay, so any rope thats not new may not reach.

also, the gear was pretty sparse in places...but the climbing is never difficult. In fact, the big challenge here is that although this route is spectacular and deserves to be among RR's great moderates, the descent is non-trivial at the moment as it involves a fair bit of downclimbing that may leave some beginners a bit uncomfortable.

at any rate, an amazing route- much credit to Larry and friends for putting this one up.

By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Sep 30, 2008

This casual route was a joy to climb. There are some great belay ledges along the way. The easy slabs were still interesting enough to be fun climbing. We thought the best climbing was the varnished corner on pitch 4. The character-building descent is somewhat long and arduous.
A great stress-free day in Red Rocks!

By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Oct 25, 2008

Great route, descent is easy to find and not too bad.

By Dana Marie
From: Beacon NY
Apr 21, 2009

An absolutely beautiful, fun and excellent moderate. Be prepared for the descent...it's long and a little grungy but well worth it.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 24, 2009

Very nice route that reminded me of climbing the Third Flatiron in Colorado. Not a lot of gear is required, long slings are nice due to all the wandering. Yep, p6 is exactly 200'. We did this for a "rest day" but didn't feel all that rested after the descent and walk out!

By Jay Holland
From: Henderson, NV
Nov 16, 2009

This is a fun climb. Was in the shade all day, so it is getting cooler for doing this one. Need lot's of small nuts for most pitches. Not extremely difficult climbing but good practice for setting pro. The decent was a thrash getting to it but not bad. Good Rap stations and an overall good climb. Pitch 2 and 5 don't have lot's of options for pro, but are fairly easy climbing. pitch 4 and the short 7th were fun. The 6th is a nice clean long pitch! Cool Day ut fun day. Car to car about 8 hours.

By Richard Denker
From: Portland OR
May 4, 2010

A fun 900'+ romp with something less then 100’ of fun moderate climbing. Agree with Karl K (Apr 13, 2008) pitch descriptions. A few more route comments:

1. For a new route the rock is very solid and we did not find much (if any) lose and feeble rock.
2. Recommend 70m rope makes the couple long pitches nicer (esp. the 6th pitch) and it helps with the descent.
3. Once you find the start, route finding is not an issue until the descent. Just remember P5 does not follow the crack but wanders left onto the face above the overhang before going up.
4. The 5.3 pitches have long runouts, which actually adds to the fun of the climb. We went 40 to 50 feet between pro. If you spend the time and energy looking for more pro placement you may be able to run it out less.
5. The crux of the climb is an 8-foot (easily protected) vertical section of 5.6 (pitch 4) and not the 5.7 pitch.
6. Belay stance at the top of P4 is slightly uncomfortable. Ethics (and the band on bolting) aside a bolt to complement the trad gear placement at the belay station would greatly improve the belay.
7. At about 165 to 180 feet up on pitch 5 there are two bushes/small trees on the right; we belayed at the upper one. Good trad placement, but not the most comfortable belay.
8. Pitch 6 is long, we ran out all but 10 feet of our 70m rope. The belay station is slightly right of the middle of the slab and about 50-feet below the easily viewed 5.7 crack of pitch 7. Setting up the belay, requires some skill – not the best belay setup for a beginner trad climber and again not a comfortable belay station.
9. Pitch 7 has the best climbing. The 5.7 crack is in the corner of a left facing dihedral. Protects well. About 2/3 the way up the crack one can escape left to the outside face and finish the climb on a blocky face.
10. The descent is a longer affair then one would like for such a fun climb. Maybe if we had previous experience with the descent gully I would say it is as easy descent. However not knowing the gully we rapped it. There are nice rap anchor every 30 to 35 meters or so. A single rope is all that is needed.

By Alex Abramov
From: San Diego, CA
May 29, 2010

Did it 5.6.2010
A fine scrambling with a couple climbing sections.
Here is 10 min video for almost every pitch:

By Brad Warne
From: Calgary, Alberta
Oct 10, 2010

Climbing is fun and all, but not worth it after doing the descent.

By Karl K
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 19, 2011

If you don't like the descent - you weren't on the easiest line down. Particularly now: someone has replaced the first rappel (that was on the pine tree) with two nice bolts off to the side.
They also added a couple of unnecessary stations that bypass cl.3 downclimbing.
Do it the old way - lots of down scrambling and a total of 4 rappels on a single 60m. Or use the new stations - at least 8 raps - most of which require double ropes.
Either way - a fairly straighforward descent.

By Brad Warne
From: Calgary, Alberta
Mar 20, 2011

I didnt say it was difficult. Its just not worth it, considering you can spend more time on the descent than on the climb.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 20, 2011
rating: 5.7 PG13

fwiw- the bolted stations on that descent were placed illegally and acts like this can jeopardize our chances of being able to bolt legally in the wilderness.

also fwiw, aside from the very first rappel, the rest is easy 4th class and no rappelling is required until you get to the top of Rising Moons.

By Karl K
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 20, 2011

Good point, John. While the two stations at the trees might prevent some wear and tear that could damage these trees - the others are unneeded - and all of them set a bad precedent.
The descent should take less than an hour to the main/starting ledge. We usually do it in well under 40 min. Pretty good for climbs that are often well over 1,000'.
IMO - almost as easy & straightforward as Angel Food Wall.
If anyone is worried about the descent - feel free to PM me.

By Killing In The Name Of
Nov 25, 2011

Decent, not great. We broke holds on every pitch, but the rock quality wasn't as bad as I expected. I caught myself having fun up there a few times. Best thing about this one versus Hot Flash, which is a more interesting route overall would be the consistency (upper+lower Hot Flash are like night and day-half great, half terrible) and the fairly quick nature of the climb. Maybe a good first route up the 1CSlabs for locals-but unless your limit is 5.7 handcrack, I think visiting climbers will find that there are a lot more interesting and sustained climbs out there. Descent took less than an hour, I think Wilder's right about just doing the first rappel and scrambling down the rest of the way to the Rising Moons raps (3 single 70 raps from this point). Doing about five raps burned a bunch of time and the way down was easier than I expected, fine in approach shoes with a pack. I'd do the minimum number of raps possible for your ability level, much less fun getting off these in the dark, I bet.

By Karl K
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 17, 2012

I just did this descent again and added my descent beta to the First Creek Slabs page.
The only addition here is, from the top of the climb, the scrub oak scramble is longer than you think; probably 100' to the exposed ledge (which still has a small cairn on it)

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
May 12, 2013
rating: 5.7

If I'd known what the descent would be like, I'd never have gotten on this route. An unroped 8th pitch followed by scrambling, thrashing and rapping was possibly the most miserable two hours I've spent on rock. I guess I'm too old for Red Rock . . .