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 ADVANCED
The Wasteland
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Automatic Leg Spreader S 
Beast with Two Backs, The S 
Beast, The S 
Believe It S 
Capuccino S 
Community Service S 
Espresso S 
Guilt Parade S 
Gun Shy S 
Java Creek S 
Lady Luck S 
Never Believe S 
Popular Demand S 
Ruckus S 
Slacker S 
Slacker Direct S 
Thieves S 
Vision Thing S 

Lady Luck 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: A. Nelson, R. Wright
Page Views: 282
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Oct 7, 2002

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Feelin' lucky.

Description 

Lady Luck is on the left panel of the wasteland, in the tan/brown vertical stone forming the upcanyon side of the amphitheater. It is just right of Community Service, the popular, well-chalked 5.11 with the roof band at mid-height, and just left of Guilt Parade, the long 5.12c up the blue, flake-type features.

The route starts with a small bulge (you can either boulder up to a good hold level with the first bolt or stick clip it). Stand up over the bulge and negotiate the thin, technical face climbing above via small crimps and a couple of dynamic stabs up into underclings. More funky, pimpy, pinchy, blocky climbing takes you through the finishing overlaps to a gold-shut anchor.

This is a tricky route that ends up being pretty damn fun once you figure out the Beta.


Protection 

10-12 quickdraws



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