Lady Luck  5.12c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.12c [details] FA:  A. Nelson, R. Wright Submitted By:  Pinklebear on Oct 7, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Feelin' lucky.

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Description 

Lady Luck is on the left panel of the wasteland, in the tan/brown vertical stone forming the upcanyon side of the amphitheater. It is just right of Community Service, the popular, well-chalked 5.11 with the roof band at mid-height, and just left of Guilt Parade, the long 5.12c up the blue, flake-type features.

The route starts with a small bulge (you can either boulder up to a good hold level with the first bolt or stick clip it). Stand up over the bulge and negotiate the thin, technical face climbing above via small crimps and a couple of dynamic stabs up into underclings. More funky, pimpy, pinchy, blocky climbing takes you through the finishing overlaps to a gold-shut anchor.

This is a tricky route that ends up being pretty damn fun once you figure out the Beta.

Protection 

10-12 quickdraws

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Gettin' Lucky!