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West Wall
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April Fools T 
Arctic Breeze S 
Banana T 
Captain Coconuts T 
Craven Image T 
Dead Tree Direct T 
Gamoke, The T 
Hospital Corner T 
Lady Bug T 
Magnum Force T 
Mainline T 
Nirvana S 
Third Stone From The Sun T 
Vanishing Point T 

Lady Bug 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 386
Submitted By: Laine on May 29, 2012

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Description 

Start at the 3rd class, broken area.
P1- head up the broken blocks to base of headwall (60ft)
P2- climb a thin crack then do a series of mantels on big dikes to gain another shallow crack (deck potential), then head left and up the steep flake with a hand crack in the back (awesome and exposed), belay inside the chimney.
P3- follow the chimney up to it's end, angle right and up following steep dikes, placing pro when available. Belay at the bowl. From here climb the hand crack 25ft up and right to a ledge with a lone pine tree at the south end. 2 raps get you back down or scramble to the top of west wall. (Note: many options exist for pitch 3)


Location 

Right of April Fools, start a base of broken blocks.


Protection 

Pro to 3"



Comments on Lady Bug Add Comment
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By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jun 8, 2012

Mmm, hard to tell, but I think you did a variation to Craven image and not Lady bug. Lady Bug is in the shallow flake just left of the prominent one of Craven Image. Lady Bug goes up to the top of the pillar that joins with April Fools and ends there. Craven Image goes up the shallow flake/chimney/gully with the piton. Then cuts out right up the face full of dikes ending at the bowl. Then there are several ways off the top from there, the best being Easier than it Looks.

There's a route left of Lady Bug also. 5.10Xish, one piton, some shitty RP's and a giant loose block on questionable quality rock. I don't really recommend it. Unknown and not in the guide.

By Laine
From: Reno, NV
Jun 8, 2012

It is quite possible, but instead of traversing out right from the second belay in the chimey, we continued up the chimney to the top of the pillar that is shared with April Fools, then traversed right over to the bowl (could have gone straight up tho). This seems consistent with the Carville guide as well as your RC post on the routes. It is my guess the confusing start(s) is what keep these quality routes from seeing more ascents. Awesome exposure with fairly easy climbing.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 8, 2012

I think everyone gets lost up there. I went up to do Lady Bug years ago. Got that first move rude awakening, then I think I was in Craven. Did a funny dike traverse way right to Clonedike anchor I think and was just plain lost after that. Pretty fun.

By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jun 20, 2012

Yeah, it matches my description, but I think my description is bogus as I too was lost the first time I climbed it.
It wasn't until I spotted a lone pin far to the left of Craven's start that I realized it was a different route. Actually, I climbed up to the pin via some loose block thing with a crack behind it, then continued up some scary loose 5.10R/X bullshit past the pin and then, that's when I spotted the independent line of Lady Bug. It's a junky shallow flake with huge dykes just left of the big chimney of Craven image. I've since climbed it and can't say much for it. It is exposed though. Gears good.