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Laddin's Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3 Piton face  T,TR 
Center crack T,TR 
Center Right 2 Piton Crack  T,TR 
Center Right Crack T,TR 
Far Right Roof  T,TR 
Laddins Chimney/OW T,TR 
Laddins Problems, Far Right T,TR 
Z Crack T,TR 

Laddin's Rock 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.0436, -73.565 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,755
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: JYT on May 14, 2009
Forecast:
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Laddins rock.
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Description 

Tucked away in the Laddin's Rock Sanctuary in a residential neighborhood in Old Greenwich, lies a 60 foot crystaly granite wall, with several routes on it. The wall is hidden by the canopy of the forest from the sun. The rock has a tendency to be wet in areas due to run-off from above. The only real crowd one might expect to see are people walking their dogs. Interesting enough, there are several rusty pitons scattered in different parts of the wall. There are also a bunch of boulders in this area as well.
There are several trad climbs, and everything is top ropeable. Might want to extend anchors to minimize rope drag.


Getting There 

Park at the Rosa Hartman Parking lot on Brown House Rd. (Stamford Side) to access the crag. Walk in West and North along a trail until you see the cliff across the drainage.


8 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Laddin's Rock:
Z Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Laddin's Rock

Featured Route For Laddin's Rock
Zee Crack <br />Protect zee second

Z Crack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  CT : Southwest : Laddin's Rock
Climb the slab at the end of the wall before the base of the cliff starts going uphill to the walk-off. Traverse the horizontal crack to the left. Get high right feet until you can swing your legs over to the left to avoid the slippery bare section in the middle of the traverse. Use the undercling beneath small roof and/ or finger crack on the right side of the overhang to pull to a nice jug. Hammer out this section of upward right hand traversing to get to the big ledge. Power through short ver...[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 18, 2011
By T Seas
Jun 8, 2009

There are two decent problems on the two aretes on the boulder mentioned behind zee crack. Either arete is fun (the overhanging side) and the close one (cliff side) prolly comes in around v2-4ish from the sitstart. A buddy from Go-V said it was called cigarette but have no idea the name. If ever back in town I'll try to get some pics of sw CT areas. (this and the very little on mt laurell is all that anyone has up here)

By T Seas
Jul 6, 2009

Went back over weekend to boulder. Here are some updates.

There are a couple of route climbs here in addition to zee crack. left of zee crack is a small crack seam that climbs past a piton. Up the hill from Zee Crack is some hi ball bouldering or short TR climbs, as well as some fun traverses. (Has big vertical split that is a great no hands rest) There is a fun V2ish boulder problem starting on the low horizontal that goes up and left through little crimps and a 2 finger dish.

On the boulder behind zee crack there are 4 definite problems. Cigarette, as mentioned before seemed much easier than remembered and I would peg at V2ish and starts on the very low right hand side pull and the left hand sloper right under the under cling. Stay right on the arÍte as you climb, don't go left to better holds as you want to top out at the point of the arÍte.

The next boulder problem is under the overhung side of the boulder and you sit start by the right arÍte. (farthest from cliff) there is a bulge in front of you slap with left hand as your right goes up the corner until you can gain a high foot and fire to the only "hold" in the middle of the blank overhang about 8 feet off the ground. Then top out in the middle of the over hang. This one probably goes at V3-4ish and can shred the hands a little.

The last two climbs are on the far side of the boulder on the slab. One starts on the far left of the slab, near the overhanging arÍte start. You can actually start the overhung climb and move right around the arÍte to finish on the slab climb to make the problem a little tougher. There are many variations on the numerous sharp crimps and I put together like 8 different ways to top out, but the left and right side are clear routes that just go up. Trying to start a traverse from the right to left but it is tough if you don't use the top edge.

Usually not much chalk on this boulder and I have never ran into someone here so have fun route finding!

By JYT
Oct 19, 2009

That seem to the left of zee crack is fun

By Julien
Aug 4, 2010

It's probably 40 feet.

By Julien
Aug 4, 2010

Two great lines to hit, also more TR lines (shorter) past the Z line. Also, a couple fun boulder problems past the shorter TRs.

By T Seas
Oct 21, 2010

Sick Julien, next time i am in town I'll have to see this beta cuz I cant picture the moves. Is this a climb for 6'4" climbers only?

By Mark Wenzel
Nov 12, 2010

I suspect Felix Modugno sent that boulder problem some 30 years ago, That crag has been covered like a cheap suit over the ages by hundreds of climbers.

By T Seas
Nov 17, 2010

I like to believe that there are FA's to be had still in this state, and in my mind, unless it has signs of being climbed already or is in a guidebook, its a FA as far as I am conserned. I bet some aboriganies climbed some of these cliffs before the first European settlers came over...

By Mark Wenzel
Nov 17, 2010

Again, I doubt it. We cleaned a ton of stuff 25 - 30 years ago... much of it has since re-grunged back over since. Even before we got there, folks like Mac Johnson had already ticked off most of the stuff

By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jul 17, 2011

Julien & T Seas - So ya unless you kids are pulling V10 and sending 5.13+ you guys likely aren't putting up any FA's @ Laddin's or any other established areas in SW/CT. Sharma, Lowell, Kupal, Gold, Carion, etc. all have been climbing here for/in the last decade... not to mention myself! The one line that we scoped that may be undone on Laddins is on the left end following a seam/crystals up and left... prob goes around 13 but may very well have gone before. And there are V8 variations on that small boulder too..

By Julien
Sep 1, 2011

absolutely i asked those guys. i was sure they'd been there. they worked down the street. i just love it when there is no chalk, it hadn't been done for a while. [[

By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Nov 18, 2011

Nice Video Julian... so I hate to break the news to you but that problem you climbed isn't an FA. We did that line years ago... and it was likely done years before that... but again nice video. Also it is spelled Ascent.

My parents lived right around the corner and I worked at GV for many many years as well... It's cool to see folks are getting stoked on the area despite the crap rock quality.