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|Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.|
Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>
Starts on top of a sloping boulder and goes straight up a shallow corner for about 60 feet to a ledge with a weak tree on it. A few stemming moves about half way up this section help the ascent. Move left at the ledge and then look up to find a shallow and short chimney with a nice crack for your right hand. There's an old piece of pro lodged at the top of the chimney. One last move gets you up on a slab where the anchors await.
From the trailhead/road find the signs to the right for climbers. Follow the trail just behind the sign for about 50-100 yards over a gentle hill to the cliff. Go right and see the slabby boulder rising up to meet the cliff. Climb starts on top of this.
The Adirondack Rock book places this climb as part of the Luther Wall.
The crack in the corner takes small gear, especially nuts. The tree 60' up can take a sling. Small gear for the crack in the upper chimney.
Oct 6, 2013
Belayers Beware! A nice size flake of rock is ready and waiting to pop off, just past the tree, directly above the belay spot. I did not use this flake for feet cause it seemed so fragile.
From: Montreal, Quebec
Jun 28, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loose flake is still there (2015-06-27)