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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
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Ladder 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 558
Submitted By: David Kider on Jul 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Starts on top of a sloping boulder and goes straight up a shallow corner for about 60 feet to a ledge with a weak tree on it. A few stemming moves about half way up this section help the ascent. Move left at the ledge and then look up to find a shallow and short chimney with a nice crack for your right hand. There's an old piece of pro lodged at the top of the chimney. One last move gets you up on a slab where the anchors await.

    Location 

    From the trailhead/road find the signs to the right for climbers. Follow the trail just behind the sign for about 50-100 yards over a gentle hill to the cliff. Go right and see the slabby boulder rising up to meet the cliff. Climb starts on top of this.

    The Adirondack Rock book places this climb as part of the Luther Wall.

    Protection 

    The crack in the corner takes small gear, especially nuts. The tree 60' up can take a sling. Small gear for the crack in the upper chimney.


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    By BenjiDa
    Oct 6, 2013

    Belayers Beware! A nice size flake of rock is ready and waiting to pop off, just past the tree, directly above the belay spot. I did not use this flake for feet cause it seemed so fragile.