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Lacuna 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: J.Snyder
New Route: Yes
Season: Sun in AM, Shade in PM
Page Views: 332
Submitted By: J. Snyder on Aug 27, 2013
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Lacuna

Description 

Lacuna climbs a colorful face with a sawtooth seam just to climbers right of Rumbleseat. The climbing fits in nicely with its classic neighbors to the left.

A slightly intimidating unprotected start leads you into engaging mixed crack and face climbing on interesting rock. Climb up into the head wall placing small cams and set up for the crux bouldery sections ahead. Make several delicate moves through a mail slot and to a wobble block. Keep calm and carry on through easier face climbing while placing specific gear to the top.

Although only slightly more difficult than Rumbleseat but less sustained than Shotgun, the crux sections are better protected with small cams. Just might be the perfect mental warm-up for Rumbleseat. PG rating because of the unprotected start moves and delicate finish above particular gear.


Location 

Lacuna starts on a small broken ledge next to a big boulder 20' right of Rumbleseat. Rap down to ledge or scramble to from Shotgun rappel.


Protection 

Gear used in order on FA:
.4 C4 12" runner
.3 C4
Red #1 C3
Green #0 C3
Purple #00 C3 x2
Grey #000 C3 x2
.75 C4
#6 BD nut



Photos of Lacuna Slideshow Add Photo
J.Snyder on FA of Lacuna <br />35mm by T.Hastie
J.Snyder on FA of Lacuna
35mm by T.Hastie
Lacuna <br />35mm by T.Hastie <br />
Lacuna
35mm by T.Hastie
Moving into final crux on Lacuna <br />
Moving into final crux on Lacuna
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