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 ADVANCED
Perfect Crimb Area
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Lacuna S 
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Perfect Crimb, The S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Lacuna 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 524
Submitted By: ferrells on Jul 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

A nice little route with an incredibly unfortunate belay. My girlfriend still scowls at me when she's reminded of my three tries on this route, and how she endured a crumbling hell belay for all three of them. Hard eleven climbing becomes 10/11 climbing for twenty or thirty feet, and then a great rest high on the wall.
From there, you shake, and look, shake and look. Unless a bunch of chalk gets sprayed on it, you won't be able to see how to finish the route, so just go up and throw yourself at it. The crux move is a long, low percentage throw to a nice, flat jug. The hardest part is how far away that big hold is. On-sight attempts are great fun on this thing. If you miss the crux throw, you can downclimb to the rest, and try to think of what to do. Shocking that the rock is good the whole way, when many of these rarely climbed twelves at Red Wing usually, and inexplicably, continue past the good rock and into the bad.
Would benefit from a carefully built trail to the base, and either a small platform dugout, or a belay bolt at the bottom.


Protection 

bolts. Please use your own gear for toprope.



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