Lack of Enthusiasm  5.11c/d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet Consensus:  5.11c/d [details] FA:  Crew from the Black Hills Submitted By:  Guy H. on Oct 5, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This arete was bolted on lead and does have some enjoyable movement for the first 9 clips. The crux comes at the end with a traverse to the left and the anchors. The guidebook says that it is 12a if you are short, but I found it very difficult being tall. There are poor feet with polished rock. The bolts are closely spaced, so you could swing over to the adjacent crack if you can't figure out the moves.

There is a mix of interesting hangers on this route, but overall it is a safe lead.

Location 

The bolted arete to the right of Deli Express...

Protection 

10-11 bolts