LaCholla Jackson 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Rick Thompson & Bob D'Antonio, 1999 |
| Submitted By: | William Prehm on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Dan Howell leading LaCholla Jackson.
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Description To find this route, make your way down the Cactus Cliff line far to the right of the parking lot. Close to the end of the cliff, you will come across a large dihedral alcove with three crack systems on the left of the dihedral. On the right arete will be a bolted route with a roof half way up it and another large roof higher that has a couple of bolts on its lip. LaCholla Jackson is the route to the left of the arete with a finger crack start. This has fun climbing past ten bolts. It is highly recommended. This is a good warm-up climb for this area or a nice intermediate climber lead.
Protection 10 quickdraws and 2 anchors.
Mid-way.
| Get those hands in the crack!
| Larger view of the rock.
| BETA PHOTO: LaCholla Jackson. Climb the steep corner with ste...
| BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (2).
| Can you tell me which bolt this brachiopod is next...
| Sherri working her way up & looking focused.
| Route.
| Turbo climbing 2/3 of the way up.
| Sarah about to clip.
| Busy day!
| I love stemming. Photo by Buster Jesik.
| Anna cruising up LaCholla Jackson.
| Curt making it look easy.
| Dana Walenta leading LaCholla Jackson.
| Starting "LaCholla Jackson".
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| Comments on LaCholla Jackson |
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By Jeff Lockyer From: Canmore, AB Apr 12, 2002
| As the book says, this route is '5.8' and very enjoyable for the grade, a great warmup on long good quality rock (except for some things just right of the bolt line towards the top 15 feet) This is for sure a 3 star route and everyone should enjoy climbing 'la-choya'. Climb hard. |
By Brad Short From: Saudia Aurora, CO Mar 10, 2003
| I think the route can be made 5.9 by staying slightly left of the bolts. But the path of least resistance stays on the bolt line, and sometimes uses cracks right of the bolts. Moderate routes don't get much better than this. |
By ROC From: Englewood, CO Mar 21, 2004
| Great climb to run some laps on to get a good burn at the end of the day. |
By Jeremy Monahan From: Fort Fun, CO Mar 28, 2004
| Watch out for loose stuff at the top. I took off a head-sized chunk that would have killed someone not paying attention! There is a lot more in the crack at the top on the climber's right, so stay away. Great route anyways. |
By Dan Battin Nov 3, 2004 rating: 5.8
| I thought La Cholla was a 5.8. |
By Nate Oakes May 14, 2007
| Climbed this route yesterday, found it quite enjoyable. Found the crux to be near the 5th and 6th bolts. Well-protected, good holds, clean rock until the top. Watch for a semi-loose chalked rock to the right near the 10th bolt. |
By Dean Cool From: Boulder, CO Nov 12, 2007 rating: 5.9
| I think this route gets a bit harder if you don't use (and I wouldn't) the two lose holds near the 10th clip. Sort of pumpy for a 5.8- like the Sharp End book states. |
By jarthur From: Westminster, CO Mar 24, 2008
| Be careful on this one. The gully to the left dropped about (10) 20-40lb blocks about 2 feet from my wife's head. By far the scariest thing I've ever witnessed especially seeing them coming right down on top of her. This happened without warning. No animals, or people present above the cliff. Just a sandy rocky gully at the top. Needless to say I went out and bought her a helmet the next day. Oh yeah the climbing was pretty cool. |
By Steve Knapp From: Highlands Ranch, CO Nov 22, 2008 rating: 5.8+
| This is a fantastic route. I felt the crux was around the 2nd bolt, the crack is too thin for use there but there are some good pockets. Look around closely for footholds, they are there. Above that the route is consistent 5.8 with some nice hand jams and small ledges for feet. There even a section to use a crack for the right hand and another for the left. Cool! Super fun route and highly recommended for moderate leaders. Mostly left handed clips, probably easier to keep most of the draws on the left side of your harness. Climbed it twice today. |
By Luke Childers Jan 2, 2009 rating: 5.7+
| Nice line. Soft for the grade. I felt it was more in the 5.7 range, but very much worth climbing. The anchors were in a strange place. I think if they were where the last bolt currently exist it would make more since, but that is just nit picking. Great route and all should climb before just walking by it. |
By jesse mascarenas Jan 16, 2009
| 5.7? No way. This is a great route, and considering the location and skills needed to red point, this route it is not in the 5.7 range. If this were in the South Platte maybe 5.7. |
By Ben Cassedy From: Denver, CO Nov 21, 2010 rating: 5.8
| As good as advertised and didn't seem all that hard for 5.8. Continuous but varied movement, nice (but somewhat polished) rock, neat line, great setting. The only downside is that it's hard to get on during a weekend. |
By BabyAlex Jun 27, 2011
| Careful about loose rock on this route (and Cactus Cliff in general). Holds are marked with Xs, but recently a large hold broke off, hit my belayer, and caused an ER visit. |
By Kyle Judson From: Colorado Jul 18, 2011 rating: 5.8
| Getting polished but overall a fun climb. Good varied face and crack moves. |
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