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Round Pond
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Labrador Dreams (aka Tin Arete) 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,099
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Feb 11, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: The arete to the left...

Description 

A slopey lip traverse. Sit start with both hands matched on the lowest part of the lip. Traverse left on friction-dependent holds until you can grab the back arete and mantle over onto the face and topout.

Due to aggressive brushing, the holds are becoming more polished.


Location 

The lowest boulder in Round Pond. As you walk into the boulders, it is the first one on the left and has a hueco visible near the top.


Protection 

Pad



Photos of Labrador Dreams (aka Tin Arete) Slideshow Add Photo
not a great picture but a great problem... Lily working it out
not a great picture but a great problem... Lily wo...
Comments on Labrador Dreams (aka Tin Arete) Add Comment
Show which comments
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 13, 2010
rating: V5 6C

Has anyone done the traverse that goes right from the start point?

By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Nov 19, 2012

I'd like to know the "official" starting position of the hands on this problem. Does it start:
1) On the crimp on the face (chalked in the photo of Lily above)
2) directly above said crimp
3) where Lily's right hand is in the photo above

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
May 27, 2013
rating: V5 6C

Eric--

Since no one else has answered your question, I will attempt to.

Having climbed this problem a few times, I would say that the most logical starting place is matched on the lowest sloper that actually has some texture to it. (So, basically where Lily's right hand is) There are two miserable, glassy slopers to the right. I've done it from those holds as well, and it is perhaps a little bit harder but definitely not better. I would say that if you start matched on the hold suggested above, the climb is low to mid grade v5. If you start on the holds to the right, the climb is hard v5.

So, as in most climbing, it's up to you. Hope that helps.

By Noah Doherty
From: Nashua, NH
Jun 21, 2013

matthew- i've heard that the traverse that goes the other way is unsent and really hard, v8 or something like that.

By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Aug 27, 2013

Traverse to the right has been sent and is probably V4. There are large underclings that make it much easier than it looks.

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 16, 2013
rating: V5 6C

Yah, Bryce is spot on. I finally got around to trying the right variation the other day and it's definitely no harder than v4 and is definitely easier than 'Labrador Dreams' proper.

The difficulty will vary slightly depending on where exactly you start, but you basically start just to the right of the lowest part of the boulder (just left of where the underclings start if I remember correctly). I didn't use the underclings at all. I just pulled off the ground threw a heel on and bumped along on the slopers until reaching the good holds out right.

Pretty straight forward and not anywhere near as good as its neighbor since it is kind of lowball and butt draggy.

By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Sep 23, 2013
rating: V5 6C

Gave this a good chalking and almost sent today. Tis the season for slopers!