Labrador Dreams (aka Tin Arete) V5
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| Type: | Boulder, 12 feet |
| Consensus: | V5 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | BDalhaus on Feb 11, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: The arete to the left...
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Description A slopey lip traverse. Sit start with both hands matched on the lowest part of the lip. Traverse left on friction-dependent holds until you can grab the back arete and mantle over onto the face and topout.
Due to aggressive brushing, the holds are becoming more polished.
Location The lowest boulder in Round Pond. As you walk into the boulders, it is the first one on the left and has a hueco visible near the top.
Protection Pad
not a great picture but a great problem... Lily wo...
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| Comments on Labrador Dreams (aka Tin Arete) |
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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 13, 2010
| Has anyone done the traverse that goes right from the start point? |
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Nov 19, 2012
| I'd like to know the "official" starting position of the hands on this problem. Does it start:
1) On the crimp on the face (chalked in the photo of Lily above)
2) directly above said crimp
3) where Lily's right hand is in the photo above |
By Christian Prellwitz
May 27, 2013
rating: V5
| Eric--
Since no one else has answered your question, I will attempt to.
Having climbed this problem a few times, I would say that the most logical starting place is matched on the lowest sloper that actually has some texture to it. (So, basically where Lily's right hand is) There are two miserable, glassy slopers to the right. I've done it from those holds as well, and it is perhaps a little bit harder but definitely not better. I would say that if you start matched on the hold suggested above, the climb is low to mid grade v5. If you start on the holds to the right, the climb is hard v5.
So, as in most climbing, it's up to you. Hope that helps. |
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