Labor of Lust  5.10 X

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  FA: Wylie, Joseph, Ming Submitted By:  John Tormalehto on Jan 27, 2004 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

P1- Step around left, and jam two parallel cracks to a pleasant belay ledge with two new bolts, 5.7+ (75').

P2- Face climb up the arete past two bolts, the crux is about 12' above the second bolt. More great face climbing takes you past some gear and one more bolt (5.9 X). Then locate belay some 30' or 40' above third bolt (natural belay) 140'.

P3- Continue up the arete (5.9 R), work up and right past a bolt used on the Mariner (5.8 X), pull over the Sorcerer roof at a finger crack (5.9). Belay after 150'.

P4- Easy rock finds the top (5.5).

Variation: A direct start right of the first pitch was put up in the 80s by Hidetaka Suzuki (5.11+). Climb a leaning, finger crack with a pin at 2/3 height. Pulling off the ground is the crux, but it will definitely keep your attention the whole way.

Protection 

Excellent, the epitome of Lumpy face climbing. This route ascends the 300-foot bluntish arete between the Mariner and Handbook. Start on the same grassy ledge from which Mariner and the Sorcerer start. (The bolts were replaced with Fixe wedge bolts, stainless steel 3/8" x 2 3/4") on 9-13-03. Standard Lumpy rack.