This climb is located just to the right of "The Line". It is a fun dike climb with big reaches and runouts. If you are short, this climb may feel like 5.11. It will probably feel on the easy side if you tall. The crux is well protected, but there are 15-20ft runouts on easier rock. Rap with two ropes from chains...
Just past the first bolt, which is a ways up there...
Does anyone know this guy? If so, please contact ...
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Feb 28, 2006
Seems a little silly but I would like to set the record straight. This route was envisioned by me and was hand drilled ground up by me. Thus the name. It was then lead bottom to top by me and seconded by Toivo Kodas. The entire route was done on 9/12/87. We originally called it 5.9 for tall folks and 10- if you are short like me. Glad to see it is getting climbed as it was a lot of work to put it up.
From: Vacaville Ca.
Apr 6, 2006
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b PG13
Calling that route a sport route is retarded, (no offence). It is most definitely a trad route with bolts for pro. A masterpiece of good style if I may say so myself.
|By Andrew Klein|
May 3, 2006
I'm 6'1" and the route felt about 5.10a to me. There was always a great bolt right where you wanted it.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 6, 2007
This climb gets my vote for the best 5.10 dike pitch at the Leap. I forgot how scary the climb is. There are some 5.9 mantles about 15-20ft out from the bolts. You will remember this climb after the rest become a distant memory.
From: Boulder, CO
May 27, 2009
I don't know Andrew. I always wanted the bolt to be within reach before making the awkward mantle. It always seemed like I was making the hardest move 15 ft above my last bolt, then making the clip.
Fun but scary route.
From: San Francisco
Oct 26, 2009
5.9 for tall folks is fair, didn't seem like there were any "crux mantles 15 feet above bolts". I felt very secure on the easier climbing between bolts and also at the distinct crux with the bolt at my chest.
|By Ryan Williams|
From: London (sort of)
Nov 1, 2011
I didn't realize this was your route Eric. Well done.
I think this was the first route I did at the Leap, which would mean it was the first pitch I had climbed in 6 weeks. I remember it taking a while to get used to the style, but I don't think I did any hard moves 15 feet above a bolt.
Fun climbing either way.
|By Patrick M.|
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 25, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c X
I would say if you are less than 6 foot tall, stay away from this climb. There is a solid and super delicate 5.11 move below the first bolt which is 25+ feet up. IMHO, it's not worth it.
It's possible to climb the first pitch of the Line and traverse to the bolted anchor to install a top rope.
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
I remember one very hard, height dependent move. The rest is solid 5.9/5.10-.
If you have the supertopo guide, disregard the recommended gear on the topo page -- this is a strictly bolted climb with no gear.