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Labatt-Ami 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bill Simes and Chuck Turner, 4/30/82
Page Views: 3,428
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 3, 2007
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Melissa Feldmann climbs at the top of Labatt-Ami(5...

Description 

Roof cracks don't get much better than this one!

This was the first line climbed at the Beer Walls, and named after the first ascentionists' fantasy on that warm spring day in '82.

Commence this climb in a blocky right-facing corner that leads to large ledge about 40 feet up. Either belay your second up to the ledge, or continue up the steepening right-facing corner.

Either way, you will eventually come to a large crack under the massive roof that casts an ominous shadow on you. Protect this with a #4 Camalot and move out left and up around the roof on buckets. Fight the sustained crack to the top, plop yourself onto the final belay ledge, and clip the chains.

This is also a great way to introduce yourself to multi-pitch climbing, as the belay ledge is as large as a car and offers several options for belaying your second.


Location 

At the far right end of the Upper Beer Walls is the unmistakable right-facing corner capped by one of the largest roofs in the Dacks. This is the line.


Protection 

A large rack with several larger pieces, including 1 #4 Camalot and a couple #3s.



Photos of Labatt-Ami Slideshow Add Photo
In need of a Labatt-Ami...
In need of a Labatt-Ami...
View of route from the base. Great climb, sustained 5.7 (+?), anchors at top up and behind the top.
View of route from the base. Great climb, sustaine...
Paul Deagle - Labatt-Ami - great climb, well protected
Paul Deagle - Labatt-Ami - great climb, well prote...
Comments on Labatt-Ami Add Comment
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By Matt Glue
From: Dillon, CO
Aug 2, 2010

There is no need for a #4 cam on this climb, or for double #3. There are a few smaller placements in the ledge just under the roof crack (tricams ideal; a slot pointing up). Maybe you'd want bigger cams if you climbed the crack itself, with the ledge for feet. Not sure if that is the "actual" line or not.

Save the #2 and #3 for the crack above that though.

By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
May 31, 2011

The rap anchors on this route are suspect. Both bolts spin and the one on the left bends when pushed against with body weight. These need to be replaced asap

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Aug 22, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Great route with a variety of moves. Ledges at bottom are the only drawback, not being as interesting as the final 50 feet.

By Matt Baer
May 15, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Great route, fun traverse to an off-width finish

By Drake Pregnall
From: Lake Placid, NY
Jul 3, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

In my couple times leading this route, I think I even used two 4 inch cams, but if I recall correctly, you can just place 3 inch cams deep in the crack so long as you sling them long to avoid what would be heinous rope drag.

By Jane
Aug 30, 2013

You can lead it with a 60 meter rope in one pitch and second can climb it belay from the base. Just use long slings to minimize the rope drag at corners. BD#3 is the largest you would ever need.