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La Surprenante
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 1.3 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 312 ft (95 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Proulx & Co |
Page Views: | 706 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Luc-514 on Sep 19, 2013 |
Admins: | Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere |
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Access Issue: This cliff is under the liability insurance of the FQME. Also watch for peregrine falcon closures.
Details
To climb at the FQME Accès Montagne cliffs you need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
fqme.qc.ca
alpineclubofcanada.ca
For falcon closures, look at the information kiosk in the parking lot.
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
fqme.qc.ca
alpineclubofcanada.ca
For falcon closures, look at the information kiosk in the parking lot.
Description
P1 - 5.5 ~50m
Start left of the glue-ins and head up a dihedral until you reach a small roof, traverse right onto the arete protected by 2 bolts, keep going to a small ledge (possible belay on a cedar on the left).
Head right to an opening and follow the depression upwards angling left.
Look for a roof jutting out of the cliff with a tree covered ledge.
Head up the corner or keep going up and traverse left to the ledge.
2 glue-ins belay/rap.
P2 - ~45m
Traverse right under the roof to an opening and head up. Follow the ramp heading left up to a ledge, head up the wall trending left above the tree ledges.
Start left of the glue-ins and head up a dihedral until you reach a small roof, traverse right onto the arete protected by 2 bolts, keep going to a small ledge (possible belay on a cedar on the left).
Head right to an opening and follow the depression upwards angling left.
Look for a roof jutting out of the cliff with a tree covered ledge.
Head up the corner or keep going up and traverse left to the ledge.
2 glue-ins belay/rap.
P2 - ~45m
Traverse right under the roof to an opening and head up. Follow the ramp heading left up to a ledge, head up the wall trending left above the tree ledges.
Photos
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