I had a pair of the Trango Extreme EVOs and loved them for their light weight and technicality. Unfortunately I left them in Patagonia last year. I'm about to buy another pair but was wondering if anyone out there has compared them to the Trango Primes.
For high end technical performance, the Trango Extremes seem to still be the choice, but the Primes seem to have a little more padding for those long approaches. Also are they maybe a little warmer?
I already have a pair of Spantiks, Nepals and Trango Lights. These boots will be used primarily as a boot to use on technical alpine routes where I may be switching between rock shoes and boots/crampons.
The soles on the Primes and Extremes are the same. So it comes down to the padding in the boot for warmth and cushion.
I have the primes and I like them for just about everything - but mostly for those long approaches. I wore them on the long's meeker cirque for 5 days last spring from car to car and they handled the miles of hiking + lots of snow and rock. They are of course my go to ice/mixed boots and I've had them on Mt. Washington in some very cold temps with toasty toes. I chose them over the EVOs for that extra padding and all-mountain design.
By Joe Palma From Stouffville, Ontario Dec 10, 2012
Primes are a bit lighter and warmer than then Extreme Evo, however they do have different soles. The Prime has the Vibram Impact Brake System sole while the Extreme Evo uses the Vibram Lavaredo. The Lavaredo is a stickier compound, with a better edging platform and would be better for a boot that might see some rock climbing.
My experience with the Silver Bullets is, they climb steep ice/mixed great. Low profile sole is great for sensitivity, but horrid for warmth and comfort. If you are looking for a bit more warmth, but still want the Trango fit and feel - go with the Primes.
Also, they have a clip in loop in the back - the Silver Bullets don't...
I didn't find the Prime any warmer and a even a bigger bitch to dry. I also thought the mid sole not as stiff on the Prime and the Bullet to climb ice better. I also though the Prime was more a Nepal last than the Trango last. Either way they fit differently new out of the box for me. Even the weight is closer than you think.
Cuff/gaiter was cool to look at but terrible to get in and out of. I ended up cutting it off eventually.
The sticky rubber on the Bullet is noticable on technical rock and approaches.
I wrote this a few years ago after using both for a season. So the other details are fuzzy. I kept the Trango Extremes and used them a good bit and would buy another. The Primes I sold.
My Trango Prime's are two years old and I've used them a ton. Durability has been descent but that is about all I can say. Their just not that special in anyway. When time come to replace them I'll look elsewhere. The biggest issue with them is they didn't use a Gore-tex liner like their other boots. The cheap liner they used is worse then worthless. Mid-winter in Colorado they are fine, but in spring/summer conditions they are soaking wet in just a few hours and take forever to dry. I have never been able to dry these while still in the mountains. I've considered buying a boot drier because after these get wet, it takes 2 or 3 days at home to fully dry out.
Love Sportiva boots but they cheaped out on these.