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By Maddy Murdock
Jan 2, 2013
PHOTO

I have La Sportiva Tarantulas and have loved the toe off of them(holes). I am debating buying new shoes or fixing these. Any advise on repair? Also, if I decide to buy I am looking at upgrading to the Futuras- got any reviews for me? First shoe replacement, would love some help.


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By Josh Kornish
Jan 2, 2013
The Roach

You should definitely get some new shoes.

Honestly getting the Futuras would just be a waste of money at the level you're climbing. No offense what-so-ever.

If you feet are loving Sportiva (mine are) then you should let us know which discipline of climbing you enjoy most.

I can tell you that you will not be disappointed with the Womens Miuras.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Jan 3, 2013

Womens Muira or Women's Katana lace or velcro. 90% of the ladies who came into the shop I used to work at left ridiculously happy with the Womens Muira Velcro, fwiw.

I'd pass on the Futura- looks like more of a gimmick than anything, and i'd want to talk to a resoler about how they'd even resole a shoe like that before dropping the dough.


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By frankstoneline
Jan 3, 2013

John Wilder wrote:
I'd pass on the Futura- looks like more of a gimmick than anything, and i'd want to talk to a resoler about how they'd even resole a shoe like that before dropping the dough.


Been wondering the same thing myself.

there is a reason miuras have stayed cutting edge for so long...


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By IronMan
Jan 3, 2013

I have Tarantulas, love them, I use them as a warm up shoe.

If you're into bouldering, go with the Solution. Best shoe on the market, bar none. I love mine. Make sure you size them real tight.

Otherwise, get the Miura.

I would go with the Solution or Miura VS


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By bearbreeder
Jan 3, 2013

get what fits your foot best for what you want to do

go to a store and try on every pair on the wall ... and even then someplace with a no questions asked return policy like REI might be worth it

all the MPers on the intrawebs cant tell you what fits your foot best

its generally not worth resoling cheap shoes IMO ... especially if there are holes

as for futuras being a gimmick ... note some sport weenie named ondra onsighted 8c+ in em ... that doesnt mean you can though =P

its that simple ;)


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By Maddy Murdock
Jan 7, 2013
PHOTO

Ive done quite a bit more research on some shoes. Im loving the solutions but know that they would be a commitment. Im also considering the Miura VS. So now its between Solutions or Women's Miura VS. My fear is that I won't be impressed with the Miura VS or that the Solutions will be too aggressive- However, id love to have an aggressive shoe. I also am currently living is the flat state of Mississippi so join into a store to try them on is out of the question. Thank you for all your help- I'm loving the feed back.


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By Maddy Murdock
Jan 7, 2013
PHOTO

OH and on the Futuras, one of my climbing buddies out in Arkansas just got Futuras and isn't trusting the "no-edge" toe...


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By Cale Hoopes
From Sammamish, WA
Jan 7, 2013
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I re-soled my Sportiva Mythos and am greatful I did. I seriously "loved" the toe off of them. I used Cascade Cobbler in Mazama, WA to great success.


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By Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Jan 7, 2013
Mathematical!

Maddy Murdock wrote:
My fear is that I won't be impressed with the Miura VS...


The Miura VS is an excellent shoe. I seriously doubt you won't be "impressed" with them.

Maddy Murdock wrote:
OH and on the Futuras, one of my climbing buddies out in Arkansas just got Futuras and isn't trusting the "no-edge" toe...


Everyone I've talked to who has used the Futura say they love them. The 'no edge' toe just eliminates the initial break in period on your toe rubber. Some people love having that hard rubber edge on their new shoes. I personally feel like I climb better once the edge has rounded off a bit.


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By frankstoneline
Jan 7, 2013

Maddy Murdock wrote:
Ive done quite a bit more research on some shoes. Im loving the solutions but know that they would be a commitment. Im also considering the Miura VS. So now its between Solutions or Women's Miura VS. My fear is that I won't be impressed with the Miura VS or that the Solutions will be too aggressive- However, id love to have an aggressive shoe. I also am currently living is the flat state of Mississippi so join into a store to try them on is out of the question. Thank you for all your help- I'm loving the feed back.


What are you climbing primarily? Downturned shoe's are nice for some things, but for me at least, a huge portion of how much i like them is how they fit my foot. I enjoy solutions, but they arent my favorite shoe ever, hell, they arent even my favorite downturned shoe.

The katana lace is slightly downturned and has the p3 rand, which might offer a nice compromise between the solution and something like the tarantula. I think they are a great all around shoe.


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By Sam Stephens
Jan 7, 2013
Top half of Melifluous

K lace is the Miura killer.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Jan 7, 2013

Taylor Ogden wrote:
The Miura VS is an excellent shoe. I seriously doubt you won't be "impressed" with them. Everyone I've talked to who has used the Futura say they love them. The 'no edge' toe just eliminates the initial break in period on your toe rubber. Some people love having that hard rubber edge on their new shoes. I personally feel like I climb better once the edge has rounded off a bit.


Agreed on the Muira VS- its by far and away my favorite shoe and i've had more than my share of shoes on my feet over the years.

Also consider your progression- you're coming off the Tarantula, a beginner/entry level shoe. Jumping to the Futura (which is designed as an expert level/advanced shoe) may be too much and you may not get that much out of them. The Muira VS is not only a fantastic intermediate shoe, its also a good advanced shoe, you get quite a bit of bang for your buck.

My only caution is with fit. I can wear the Muira, cant tolerate the Katana Lace or Solution on my foot. This seems to be the case with a fair number of my friends who have weird shaped feet- if you've got a perfect Sportiva foot, dont worry so much, if youve got some weirdness to your feet, the Muira will (generally) fit better than the other shoes being discussed here.

As bearbreeder pointed out- this is all speculation, the best possible thing to do is go try some on, but barring that, you'll just have to guess. Most online shops who sell shoes have a pretty good fit/return policy though.


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By JCM
From Golden, CO
Jan 7, 2013

John Wilder wrote:
My only caution is with fit. I can wear the Muira, cant tolerate the Katana Lace or Solution on my foot. This seems to be the case with a fair number of my friends who have weird shaped feet- if you've got a perfect Sportiva foot, dont worry so much, if youve got some weirdness to your feet, the Muira will (generally) fit better than the other shoes being discussed here.


I have the exact same fit issues with the shoes you mentioned. It seems to me that there isn't one "Sportiva foot" fit, but actually two different fit regimens among their performance shoes. Like Mr. J Wilder, the Miura (lace) fits me very well, as do the Pythons and Testarossas. Meanwhile, the Miura velcroes, the Katana Lace, and the Solution all do not fit me at all. I have seen this exact same fit pattern in several other people as well. It seems that people who fit the Miura lace do well in the Pythons, while people who like the Miura VCs also like the Solution. I'm not sure where the Futura fits into this pattern.

Anyway, back to the OP's question: It is rather impractical to try to fit performance shoes correctly via mail-order. Plan yourself a climbing trip to somewhere like Chattanooga, and try on some shoes while there.


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By bearbreeder
Jan 8, 2013

Jon Moen wrote:
It is rather impractical to try to fit performance shoes correctly via mail-order. Plan yourself a climbing trip to somewhere like Chattanooga, and try on some shoes while there.



this ,,, unless you can order from somewhere with free return shipping like zappos ...

in sportiva i am a

39 katana velcro
39.5 katana lace
39 both miuras
38.5 nagos
cant fit the tarantulas, testerossas, solutions at all no matter what the size

half a size either way and its too loose or too tight ... without trying on the shoe i wouldnt be able to find the right fit ...

and EVEN KNOWING my size and shoe ... its still a bit of a risk buying shoes online as i have found sportivas to vary a bit sometimes even with the same shoe and size ...

gyms often have events with shoe demos as well ... good chance to try stuff out ...


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By frankstoneline
Jan 8, 2013

I know the thread is on the topic of La Sport shoes, but you might also consider looking into 5.10. Over the years I've found I have a bit more leeway in 5.10 shoes than the la sports, so they are a better bet for ordering online. in particular, you might look into a pair of moccs. I've owned them in a range of sizes (from 1 to 2.5 sizes down from my street shoe size) and they've all done well. Those shoes will basically stretch until the end of time, thus you can size them down considerably (I'd start 1.5 sizes down from your street shoe) and have an aggressive fitting all around shoe.

more (probably unwanted) food for thought.


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By TeresaG
From tucson az
Jan 9, 2013
Bouldering at Hairpin

The Miura vs are the first pair of aggressive shoes that I bought. I feel like they have been a perfect "transition to the aggressive side" coming from the mythos and scarpas. They definitely don't disappoint and were exactly what I needed. Also I agree with trying them on first. One thing for me was that I didn't love them in the store but once I got to use them, I fell in love. Good luck!


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