You’ve worn a hole through your first pair of climbing shoes because it turns out that you really like climbing (you might even be a little addicted to it). You’re ready for a new pair of shoes and are looking for a high performance shoe, convinced that it is most definitely the shoe that stands between you sending or not sending your project. When it comes to women’s high performance shoes, I count a total of 7 options available in the US. I’m not sure whether Missy, Mary, and I all just copied each other, or La Sportiva’s Miura VS is simply the best high performance shoe, but as we all own a pair of these, Crux Crush is giving you not one but three reviews of the Miura VS.
Fit
Cate: Fits compactly, perfectly stiff in the toe for edging, but with a little too much extra room in the heel and sides. Ideally I’d like to take these a size smaller as I like a tight but not painful shoe, but the toe box is too stiff for me to comfortably climb in anything smaller than a 38.
Mary: For me, the fit is good, like 4 out of 5 stars good. The rubber doesn’t suction to my foot the way the La Sportiva Testarossa does (see review here), so you don’t get that “fits like a glove” feeling, but it still hits my foot in the right places. For it’s aggressiveness this shoe is really comfortable. As for sizing, any smaller and I’d be in a little pain.
Missy: I switched from my comfy Evolv Elektras to the Miura because I was looking for more of an aggressive shoe, but was worried about sacrificing comfort for performance. Fortunately, this has not been the case at all. They broke in quickly but did not stretch out. I’ve had mine for about a year, already got them resoled once, and they are still my main climbing shoe.
Form
Cate: I like the shape of the shoe – makes my foot feel nice and petite! The Velcro abilities are clutch for on and off while bouldering. However, I could go without the flower-power pattern, adding a splash of color instead.
Mary: I’m not crazy about the aesthetics of this shoe, but I overlook that for its other qualities. I agree with Cate here and would be psyched to see this shoe lose the flowers for a fun color pop.
Missy: I’m a big Velcro fan, especially the three straps, because it allows for a nice custom fit, and I like the colors, black, white, with a little yellow. What I don’t love are the little flowers. BUT having said that, since I love these shoes so much, it’s like I don’t even see the flowers anymore. I guess love is blind after all.
Function
Cate: These are my go-to shoes for any technical climbing involving edging or non-existent feet. However, if I’m climbing over-hung routes or anything involving heel-hooks, I’d wear my Solutions.
Mary: This shoe was designed to be a well-rounded performance shoe, so it’s good for most types of climbing. I think it’s decent for toeing-in on overhanging routes and secure enough for good heel hooking, but it really shines as an edging shoe. However, I would love the sole to be a touch thinner for more sensitivity.
Missy: What I really like about this shoe is that I can trust it on the tiniest chips. I think because of the softness it gives you sensitivity, which provides you with control and precision, and because of that you feel more confident.
Finances
Cate: Personally, $170 seems a bit steep, but I’m also quite frugal. I wouldn’t make these your gym shoes, but they’re worth the money (and will hold up) to save for projecting routes outside.
Mary: I’ve owned two pairs so far and I will likely buy them again. They’ve become my outdoor warm-up shoes and go-to gym shoes (even though Cate wouldn’t use them this way). If you have the time to be patient, you won’t have to pay full price for these babies. Check out the outdoor gear aggregator spadout.com to compare prices.
Missy: I found mine for $140, and since this was my first pair of “serious” sport shoes I was a little freaked about plunking that down, but I quickly got over it, and have never once regretted it. I would gladly pay that much again (and likely I will once I’ve run these into the ground).
Crush Status
Cate: Crushing on, but not in love.
Mary: Long-term love. A pair you can count on.
Missy: Beyond crushed out, totally in love.
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