|By Evan Sanders |
From Westminster, CO
May 6, 2013
Youíve worn a hole through your first pair of climbing shoes because it turns out that you really like climbing (you might even be a little addicted to it). Youíre ready for a new pair of shoes and are looking for a high performance shoe, convinced that it is most definitely the shoe that stands between you sending or not sending your project. When it comes to womenís high performance shoes, I count a total of 7 options available in the US. Iím not sure whether Missy, Mary, and I all just copied each other, or La Sportivaís Miura VS is simply the best high performance shoe, but as we all own a pair of these, Crux Crush is giving you not one but three reviews of the Miura VS.
Cate: Fits compactly, perfectly stiff in the toe for edging, but with a little too much extra room in the heel and sides. Ideally Iíd like to take these a size smaller as I like a tight but not painful shoe, but the toe box is too stiff for me to comfortably climb in anything smaller than a 38.
Mary: For me, the fit is good, like 4 out of 5 stars good. The rubber doesnít suction to my foot the way the La Sportiva Testarossa does (see review here), so you donít get that ďfits like a gloveĒ feeling, but it still hits my foot in the right places. For itís aggressiveness this shoe is really comfortable. As for sizing, any smaller and Iíd be in a little pain.
Missy: I switched from my comfy Evolv Elektras to the Miura because I was looking for more of an aggressive shoe, but was worried about sacrificing comfort for performance. Fortunately, this has not been the case at all. They broke in quickly but did not stretch out. Iíve had mine for about a year, already got them resoled once, and they are still my main climbing shoe.
Cate: I like the shape of the shoe Ė makes my foot feel nice and petite! The Velcro abilities are clutch for on and off while bouldering. However, I could go without the flower-power pattern, adding a splash of color instead.
Mary: Iím not crazy about the aesthetics of this shoe, but I overlook that for its other qualities. I agree with Cate here and would be psyched to see this shoe lose the flowers for a fun color pop.
Missy: Iím a big Velcro fan, especially the three straps, because it allows for a nice custom fit, and I like the colors, black, white, with a little yellow. What I donít love are the little flowers. BUT having said that, since I love these shoes so much, itís like I donít even see the flowers anymore. I guess love is blind after all.
Cate: These are my go-to shoes for any technical climbing involving edging or non-existent feet. However, if Iím climbing over-hung routes or anything involving heel-hooks, Iíd wear my Solutions.
Mary: This shoe was designed to be a well-rounded performance shoe, so itís good for most types of climbing. I think itís decent for toeing-in on overhanging routes and secure enough for good heel hooking, but it really shines as an edging shoe. However, I would love the sole to be a touch thinner for more sensitivity.
Missy: What I really like about this shoe is that I can trust it on the tiniest chips. I think because of the softness it gives you sensitivity, which provides you with control and precision, and because of that you feel more confident.
Cate: Personally, $170 seems a bit steep, but Iím also quite frugal. I wouldnít make these your gym shoes, but theyíre worth the money (and will hold up) to save for projecting routes outside.
Mary: Iíve owned two pairs so far and I will likely buy them again. Theyíve become my outdoor warm-up shoes and go-to gym shoes (even though Cate wouldnít use them this way). If you have the time to be patient, you wonít have to pay full price for these babies. Check out the outdoor gear aggregator www.spadout.com to compare prices.
Missy: I found mine for $140, and since this was my first pair of ďseriousĒ sport shoes I was a little freaked about plunking that down, but I quickly got over it, and have never once regretted it. I would gladly pay that much again (and likely I will once Iíve run these into the ground).
Cate: Crushing on, but not in love.
Mary: Long-term love. A pair you can count on.
Missy: Beyond crushed out, totally in love.