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 ADVANCED
c. LA Roof
Routes Sorted
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Acute Corner T,TR 
Battle of the Bulge TR 
East LA T,TR 
LA Roof T 
Sound The Horn TR 

LA Roof 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Russ Clune, 1998
Page Views: 1,996
Submitted By: Taino on Dec 27, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: LA Roof

Description 

There has been only one reported ascent of this route - Russ Clune climbed it over ten years ago, placing three pairs of two pitons (six pitons total) to protect the roof moves. It's unknown if he placed the pitons on lead or not. Regardless, the route is impressive.

If you look carefully, you can still see the remains of the rusty pitons under the roof. It's unlikely that this route will see a second ascent.

Location 

Start at little arete in center of wall under roof, follow holds up tier to small dihedral and out left to tier in roof. Climb seam in roof out left and over.

Protection 

On the first ascent (either on lead or on rappel), Russ Clune placed six pitons total to protect the roof moves; they are likely no longer viable, as the area seeps quite a bit. Do NOT TR this route; the pendulum is severe, and the awaiting trees are always hungry.


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By Gunkiemike
Aug 24, 2012

Because the Lost Arrow pin(s) that protect the route were removed a long while ago.
By msdubs007
Aug 25, 2012

Route has finally seen another ascent! I did the route clean today, we placed new gear last week on rappel. All natural gear this time, no pins. So psyched on this thing, deserves to be climbed.